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RE: TR3A Steering

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR3A Steering
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:23:34 -0700
John :

There are lots of things that can be done, depending on exactly where the
slop is coming from.  In addition to the steering box itself, the
silentblocs, idler arm, and tie rod ends are all suspects.  I even had a
steering arm come loose on the vertical link, once.

It's certainly best to pull the box to adjust it, but it is possible to do
it in the car.  The first step is to remove all end play from the worm.
Observe the steering shaft carefully while turning it through the 'slop
area'.  If the shaft moves in and out of the steering column at all, there
is end play in the worm.  The end play is adjusted by removing shims from
the end cover.  There are different thicknesses of shims, so you may need to
mix-n-match to get the right thickness.  "While a slight amount of pre-load
is permissible, in no circumstances must there be any end float."  Of
course, you'll need to at least disconnect the horn and turn signal wires to
get the cover and shims off.  I would suggest undoing the control head from
the steering wheel, then pulling the wires back into the stator tube until
the ends are just flush, and pulling the stator tube up into the column a
few inches.  That way the wires don't get soaked in oil, and the tube
doesn't get in your way.

Once the end play is adjusted (and the tube and wires installed), jack the
front of the car up so the wheels hang free.  Tighten the set screw in the
top cover of the steering box until you can just barely feel a tight spot,
just the slightest resistance as you turn the wheel.  The resistance should
be in the middle, but may be off to each side if the peg is worn, so turn
through the entire range when testing.  It's best to tighten the lock nut
each time, as the screw may turn on it's own otherwise.

If that doesn't bring things under control, the next step is to pull the
box.  If your car has the split column, the box can be removed without
taking off the front apron.

Replacing just the bushing, seal and peg will do wonders for the box, and
IMO is a fairly easy DIY project.  Parts cost is around $20.  If the
bearings and/or worm are shot, best to look for a used or reconditioned box.

Randall
59 TR3A daily driver (still down for valve job)

>   I have ignored sloppy steering to the point that I now have a couple
> inches play in the steering wheel, and the left front tire will
> wobble some
> at speed on Victoria, my '58 TR3A.  Can anything be done other
> than swapping
> out the steering box?

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