Hello All,
Just my 2 cents on a possible resolution to the dreaded 6 cylinder
Triumph clutch problems. I put together a checklist to reference when
into a clutch replacement. I think it could be useful to individuals
that are new to the world of clutch systems and to us as a whole to get a
grip on this troublesome clutch system. Most people just want to get in
and get out when doing a clutch and who can blame them. We want to drive
these things. Me, I like to do things once "correctly" and move on to
the next project. My thoughts are that if people approach a clutch with
the intention of gathering information along the way, it might help them
as well as all of the other Triumph 6 cylinder owners with future clutch
problems. I think a lot of people are happy with their "Magic" type
clutch right now but may not be after a few thousand miles on the clock.
I will be installing a LuK clutch this winter and will be using the
checklist to document everything I take out and install. I presently
have a Borg & Beck plate and disk (not sure which one), Toyota release
bearing and .70" M/C. Everything else appears to be stockTR6 parts. We
all trust that the parts we are getting are "correct" for our cars but it
appears that the recipe has been tainted along the way.
We will be posting this checklist and a shop reference document on our
club website soon. The reference doc is just a compilation of
information, much of it opinion, that I have retrieved from emails, web
sites and the archives. If you want one or both now just send me an
email and I will forward to you as an attachment.
Good luck,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
1971 TR6 project
1973 TR6 driver - wanting to "Drive it Hard"
Member "Cape Cod British Car Club" @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
First annual Columbus Day Weekend Event Saturday 10/6 thru Monday 10/8.
See website for details.
From: RPVanLuchene@lbl.gov
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 15:05:13 -0700
Subject: the never-ending clutch problem saga
6 Packers,
I noticed lately that it is difficult to shift into
first when starting off, after the car has been sitting
overnight. It gets better after the trans warms up, but
sometimes in traffic it is difficult. I am not having
problems getting into reverse as I was prior to having my
entire clutch internals replaced - but something (TO bearing
I presume) is starting to make a fluttering-type of squeal
when I depress the clutch pedal (even after the car is warm)
. The squeal lasts about 4 or 5 seconds, and if I keep the pedal
depressed, it goes away with the drop in engine RPM's.
It is not as high-pitched of a squeal as I heard with my
last clutch, though. Maybe that's b/c I am in the early stages
of TO bearing failure. The clutch pedal action isn't as smooth as
it was after the recent clutch work, either - the pedal feels
as if there is extra resistance in the MC, making it hard to
engage the clutch without dumping it at times. It is like the clutch
pedal is hanging up or sticking -I believe this is the sticky clutch
syndrome that Nelson was talking about on the Buckeye
Triumphs site. Nelson, have you had any problems in recent
miles since you wrote the essay about honing/polishing the
front trans cover?
Anyone have any opinions or experience with solving this problem
or with Nelson and Murry's Sticky Clutch theory?
My pressure plate and clutch plate are made by Sachs,
I think the TO bearing is made by AP.
Ryan
6/71 TR6
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