Ct54531@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have exactly the same problem as one of the ones Noah Freeman wrote about
> earlier this week, to wit:
> -fuel/temp guages reading correctly and exactly
> -blinkers blinking, but dash light not doing anything (weird)
As I wrote Noah, this is a separate problem. Most likely, the bulb is
not making good contact in it's holder, but might also be a bad bulb,
bad connection, wiring problem, or bad flasher.
> -generator light ALWAYS on, amp meter never going up to zero, always
> negative,
>
> > 2) remove the wire from the 'F' terminal on the control box
> > (regulator). Measure the resistance between the F and D terminals, it
> > should be under 1 ohm. If not, the control box is bad.
> >
>
> I have an analog multitester and frankly am not certain I'm reading this
> right. With the dial set at X1 (as opposed to X10 or X1K), the needle moves
> just a little to the 45 on the scale. At X10, the reading is 7, and at X1K,
> its off the far end.
Analog meters have an adjustment for 0 ohms, it sounds like yours is not
adjusted properly. It's normal to have to reset it each time you use
the meter, and even over a period of time using the meter. However, the
45/70 ohms indication says your control box is bad, or at least that the
regulator contacts are not making good contact. Cleaning them may get
it working, for awhile.
>
> > 3) Measure the resistance between the wire that came off the F terminal
> > and ground. It should be between 5 and 10 ohms. If not, either the
> > generator or (more likely) the wiring is bad.
>
> X1 = 15, X10 = 3, X1K = 1.5
With the zero misadjusted, it's hard to say what, if anything these
measurements mean. BTW, those readings mean 15, 30 and 1500 ohms.
>
> > Put the wires back, Start the engine, and set it for a fast idle
> > (1500-2000 rpm)
> > 4) Terminal E to battery ground post should be under 1.0 volts. If not,
> > you have a bad ground. Also check from E to the generator housing.
>
> Meter set at 10v.
>
> No discernible movement at all.
That's good.
>
> > 5) Measure D to E. This should be around 13-15v, if it is then the
> > generator is working. Higher indicates a bad regulator.
>
> 2-3 volts
Most likely because of the bad regulator from step 2).
>
> > 6) Assuming D-E is under 13v, compare it with A-E. If they are the
> > same, the ignition lamp should be out. If not, the wiring to the lamp
> > is wrong.
>
> Set at 10v, off the far end strongly.
This is not a good thing to do to your meter. D'arsonval (sp?) meter
movements are delicate things, repeatedly driving them into the stops
will eventually damage them.
>
> > 7) Also assuming D-E is under 13v, check D-F. It should be under 1.0v,
> > if not, the regulator is bad or badly misadjusted. One exception to
> > this is if the ammeter is reading a lot of charge at this point, 15 amps
> > or more, which could indicate a bad or deeply discharged battery.
>
> 5-6 volts.
Another indication that the control box is bad.
>
> 8) As a final check, (again assuming step 5 was under 13v) stop the
> > engine, remove both wires from the generator, jumper the terminals
> > together and connect the voltmeter from either terminal to ground.
> > Start the engine. Rev no higher than about 750 rpm, and check the
> > voltmeter reading. If you don't get at least 15v, the generator is
> > definitely bad.
>
> Did this one a while ago. Good strong reading at the jumped terminals on the
> generator.
So the generator is likely OK.
>
> According to the book, around 4-8v indicates a bad
> > armature or brushes, around 1v indicates a bad field. If you do get
> > 15v, reconnect the wires and repeat the test with the F and D wires at
> > the regulator. If you get different results here, then the wires are
> > bad.
> >
> At the F and D terminals, 5-6 volts.
I perhaps was not clear enough, I meant to disconnect the wires from the
F and D terminals, and jumper the wires together, then measure the
voltage from the jumper to ground with the engine idling (up to 750
rpm). Just like the previous test, you should get at least 15v doing
this. If the previous test produced 15v, but this one does not, the
wires themselves (or their connection to the generator terminals) have
to be bad. (If the previous test didn't produce 15v, there's no point
in doing this one; instead you should replace the generator and start
over.)
> Should I forget the mechanics and get an exorcist?
That's exactly what I've been describing, an exorcism ritual (one of
many) for Lucas, Prince of Darkness. There _are_ certain risks,
including transference. (I've always wondered if this isn't the cause
of Shipwright's disease.) If dancing widdershin in the dark of the moon
makes you nervous, perhaps you should consult a professional <g>
"Any technology sufficiently advanced is indistinguishable from magic."
Randall
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