triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

RE: Engine Still Won't Start - TR6

To: Alan FitzPatrick <afitzpat@twcny.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Engine Still Won't Start - TR6
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:50:24 -0700
> I am perplexed!
>
> 1) Engine turns over, this is good!
> 2) 12+ volts to the + side of the coil
> 3) 0.15 volts on the low tension lead (non
> cranking) and 0.25 volts (cranking). Is this
> correct?

Depends a little on your voltmeter, but I'd say No, it's not correct.

Remove the dizzy cap, turn the engine until you can see the points open.
(Take your pick of engine turning methods, one is to put the transmission in
4th gear and push the car either backwards or forwards.  Take it out of gear
after pushing, just in case the engine decides to fire.)  Turn the key on
(but don't bump the starter) and re-check the voltage on the points side of
the coil.  You should now see 12 volts.  If not, remove the low tension lead
from either the coil or the dizzy, and check the voltage at the coil again.
If you now see 12v, there is a short inside the dizzy (possibly inside the
capacitor).  If you still don't get 12v, the coil is open (bad).

One other test worth trying, if you do see 12v on the points side of the
coil in the first test above, is to connect a test light from the points
terminal to ground.  It should light brightly.  If not, either the coil or
the ballast resistor (if 69's had ballast resistors, I don't know offhand)
is bad.

Randall

///  triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
///  To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
///  with nothing in it but
///
///     unsubscribe triumphs
///
///  or try  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>