Hello all- TR4 (CT 39262) electrical weirdness
Here is the situation- my temp gauge was reading high, as was my fuel
gauge. Suspected the voltage regulator. Replaced it. Now my fuel and
temp gauges read correctly, but the "generator light" on the dash is
always on (brighter at higher RPMs), and the ammeter never reads
positive- the best I can get is right under zero. Car still runs good,
but I have a nagging suspicion that im not recharging the battery at
all, and that it will eventually die on me, leaving me stranded
somewhere unpleasant, like work.
I emailed this question to the list, and got a very detailed reply from
Randall...I did what he said last night, answers to his questions are
below- i have a couple of followup questions....
Randall said--------------------
Engine off :
1) Double check the mechanical stuff : fan belt present and snug,
generator snug on mounts, wires firmly connected to generator, etc. You
should only be able to turn the generator fan with great difficulty, if
at all. If the generator has been off the car, it's worth repolarizing
it.
Me-------------------------------
Fan belt is actually pretty loose, generator at the full outward end of
its slide, and still not quite tight enough. BUT, the fan belt does not
slip while the car runs. I want to work on this, but I dont think this
is causing the problem. (which started suddenly when I changed
regulators)
Randall-----------------
2) remove the wire from the 'F' terminal on the control box
(regulator). Measure the resistance between the F and D terminals, it
should be under 1 ohm. If not, the control box is bad.
Me---------
0 ohms
Randall---------
3) Measure the resistance between the wire that came off the F terminal
and ground. It should be between 5 and 10 ohms. If not, either the
generator or (more likely) the wiring is bad.
Me-------
6 ohms
Randall--------
Put the wires back, Start the engine, and set it for a fast idle
(1500-2000 rpm)
4) Terminal E to battery ground post should be under 1.0 volts. If not,
you have a bad ground. Also check from E to the generator housing.
Me--------
4.2mV to the ground post, 32mV to the generator housing
Randall-----------
5) Measure D to E. This should be around 13-15v, if it is then the
generator is working. Higher indicates a bad regulator.
Me---------
13.5V
Randall---------
6) Assuming D-E is under 13v, compare it with A-E. If they are the
same, the ignition lamp should be out. If not, the wiring to the lamp
is wrong.
Me--------
Well, D-E was higher than 13v, but I did it anyway, and got 12.5V
Randall------------------
7) Also assuming D-E is under 13v, check D-F. It should be under 1.0v,
if not, the regulator is bad or badly misadjusted. One exception to
this is if the ammeter is reading a lot of charge at this point, 15 amps
or more, which could indicate a bad or deeply discharged battery.
Me-----------
D-E still higher, but what I got was 5.5-8.5 volts,wildly fluctuating
(meter never settled down) This makes me think that the new regulator I
put in (got it in the parts bin from the PO) is pooched...one imagines
that a wildly varying number well above suggestions indicates a pooched
regulator, no?
Randal------------
8) As a final check, (again assuming step 5 was under 13v) stop the
engine, remove both wires from the generator, jumper the terminals
together and connect the voltmeter from either terminal to ground.
Start the engine. Rev no higher than about 750 rpm, and check the
voltmeter reading. If you don't get at least 15v, the generator is
definitely bad. According to the book, around 4-8v indicates a bad
armature or brushes, around 1v indicates a bad field. If you do get
15v, reconnect the wires and repeat the test with the F and D wires at
the regulator. If you get different results here, then the wires are
bad.
Me-----------------
Did this, only got 8.9 Volts-
Analysis- I think the new regulator I put in is crap. What does
everyone else think? The test wasnt qutie solid because with D-E >13V,
i dont know if test #7 still applies...thoughts all?
Additionally, it sounds like the generator may be weak (though it was
working fine before the regulator switch off)...I have a new one, just
needs to be put in...(d--mn, why is that littly triangle deflector on
the timing chain cover so sharp? Cut my hand fiddling with the lower
generator mount bolt, which may be stripped (does it have a nut behind
it, or does it screw straight inot the generator, like the top outer
bolt?)
Thanks all- input appreciated...
Noah
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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