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hello and a few questions x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: hello and a few questions x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
From: Dan Von Seggern <danvon@scripps.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:19:07 -0700
Organization: The Scripps Research Institute
Hi all.

first, I should say that i have been watching the list for a while and
am very impressed with the depth of knowledge you all have, and it looks
like everyone is having a good time keeping the cars on the road.

I recently bought a 76 Spitfire (FM47560UOC) and am going over it trying
to get everything back in good working order.  As one would expect, a
few questions have come up that i am hoping someone can answer.  I
apologize if bundling a ton of things together is any kind of
list-ettiquete violation.

first, the dashlights are out (don't come on at all although all the
rest of the electrical stuff seems to work) and the dimmer switch is the
likely culprit as it is stuck (won't turn) and generally
disreputable-looking.  The replacement part i found listed was quite
expensive.  As i am not trying to keep the minor things 100% original,
is there a switch from another car that will do the job?  from the
wiring diagrams, it appears that this is simply a rheostat that the
power for the lamps go through.  Alternatively, could one simply leave
the old switch in the dash and bypass it (leaving the lights on full?)

second, the seller set the timing to 2 degrees ATDC (I think that this
is the factory spec) to pass the CA smog test.  I was playing with it
last weekend and it runs much smoother if set to about 6 deg. BTDC.  Is
this normal (it does idle a bit higher now (~1200 rpm), so i think that
i need to go back to high school shop and re-learn how a carb. works).
or does it suggest that something is wrong, perhaps with an advance
mechanism?  And will i damage anything running it this way?  I should
mention that the motor seems to be from a later car (124129UCE) and has
a single Stomberg carb.

third, the heater valve looks a little manky and is stuck part-way
open.   I fear that when i dismantle the system, i'll find that it is in
bad shape.  I seem to remember something a while back about a Chrysler
valve that will bolt in ints place.  Am i remembering correctly, and are
there any opinions about doing this?

finally, there is a stripped stud on one of the rear wheels (lug nut
turns but doesn't loosen).  Any suggestions on dealing with this?

thanks very much in advance.

Dan




-- Dan J. Von Seggern, Ph.D.
Assistant Professor
Department of Immunology  IMM-19
The Scripps Research Institute
10550 North Torrey Pines Road
La Jolla, CA   92037

phone:   (858) 784-8329
FAX:     (858) 784-8472

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