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RE: hello and a few questions

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: hello and a few questions
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:27:32 -0700
Hi Dan :
>
> I
> apologize if bundling a ton of things together is any kind of
> list-ettiquete violation.

No problem at all.

>
> first, the dashlights are out (don't come on at all although all the
> rest of the electrical stuff seems to work) and the dimmer switch is the
> likely culprit as it is stuck (won't turn) and generally
> disreputable-looking.  The replacement part i found listed was quite
> expensive.  As i am not trying to keep the minor things 100% original,
> is there a switch from another car that will do the job?

There are several others that would work electrically, but they all seem to
be pretty expensive (~ $70) also.  MGB is one (at least some years), you
might check the local wrecking yards.

>  from the
> wiring diagrams, it appears that this is simply a rheostat that the
> power for the lamps go through.

Exactly.  If you knew the correct resistance and power rating, you could
probably buy a substitute at Radio Shack.  Might be that a "L-pad" as used
in 2-way speaker systems (and sold at Best Buy, RS, etc.) would work, I
don't know.

> Alternatively, could one simply leave
> the old switch in the dash and bypass it (leaving the lights on full?)

Sure, although if you do any driving in real darkness (no streetlights or
other cars), you might want to at least have an on/off for the dash lights.

>
> second, the seller set the timing to 2 degrees ATDC (I think that this
> is the factory spec) to pass the CA smog test.  I was playing with it
> last weekend and it runs much smoother if set to about 6 deg. BTDC.  Is
> this normal (it does idle a bit higher now (~1200 rpm), so i think that
> i need to go back to high school shop and re-learn how a carb. works).
> or does it suggest that something is wrong, perhaps with an advance
> mechanism?  And will i damage anything running it this way?  I should
> mention that the motor seems to be from a later car (124129UCE) and has
> a single Stomberg carb.

As someone has already suggested, the key is whether the vacuum retard is
functioning properly.  Somewhere around 6-10 BTDC (don't have the right
number handy, but it's usually listed in the book as the 'static' timing
figure) is the correct setting if the retard is not working.

Regardless of the vacuum retard, increasing the initial advance will always
increase the idle speed, which may make it seem to idle smoother.  As
someone already posted tho, this can lead to detonation (ping or knock)
while driving, which can cause severe engine damage (anyone want to see my
broken piston collection <g>).

> third, the heater valve looks a little manky and is stuck part-way
> open.   I fear that when i dismantle the system, i'll find that it is in
> bad shape.  I seem to remember something a while back about a Chrysler
> valve that will bolt in ints place.

I probably said that, and it's not quite a bolt-in operation.  You have to
find some fitting to replace the old valve (or just keep the old valve set
to full open), then find (or make) a straight length of heater hose where
you can splice in the Chrysler unit.  Otherwise, it works well, I saw
several of them at Triumphest.

> finally, there is a stripped stud on one of the rear wheels (lug nut
> turns but doesn't loosen).  Any suggestions on dealing with this?

Harbor Freight sells a 4" angle grinder, frequently on sale for around $20.
Home Depot sells a pack of abrasive discs with the correct (5/8" ?) center
hole, that includes a cut-off disc for metal.  Use them to cut down through
the center of the stud and nut, being careful not to cut into the wheel.
When you've gotten as close to the wheel as you dare, use a narrow cold
chisel and a BFH to finish breaking the nut in half.  Then use the abrasive
wheel to cut off as much of the stud as necessary to get the wheel off,
remove the wheel, and cut again if necessary to get the brake drum off.
Odds are, the stud is loose in the hub, which probably means a new hub, and
a special tool to remove the hub from the stub axle.

> La Jolla, CA   92037

I assume you're familiar with the Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego ?
http://clubs.hemmings.com/sandiegotriumph/

Go to a meeting, meet some people, ask for help.  I think you'll be
pleasantly surprised.

Randall
58/9 TR3A daily driver
63/5 Sports 6 rustoration project
57 TR3 someday restoration project
5?/9 TR3A sittin in the barn
et al

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