> I've got the worm and shaft out, and the drop arm nut is off (back on
> with a little space to prevent pieces flying). I've been spraying
> with Liquid Wrench for 24 hours now. I have a decent quality two-jaw
> puller I have tightened so far I'm afraid it will fly into a million
> pieces (actually did shear off part of one of the tabs on the side of
> the drop arm!). I've then whacked it hard with a heavy hammer,
> repeatedly. Liquid Wrench. Tighten. Whack. Repeat. Argh!
Dan :
My suggestion would be to get a real Pitman arm puller in the
appropriate size. I wouldn't use heat here, it's not likely to help and
might damage the shaft.
However, since I frequently don't take my own advice, I was able to get
mine apart by making up some 'side arms' to hold the puller jaws in
place. (At least for me, the 'shearing' happened as the jaws were
sliding off the tabs.) I then inserted a 15" punch in one of the puller
holes as a lever to hold it from turning, and tightened the forcing
screw as much as I could with a big wrench, while whacking the head of
the forcing screw with a BFH. _Then_, I started hitting the Pitman
(drop) arm itself, on the end between the pulling tabs. On about the
4th whack, there was a large Bang! and the puller flew several feet. I
assumed it had broken, but it was fine, and I found the arm nearby.
> Also, some of the splines on the end of the shaft, where the steering
> wheel goes on, look pretty bad. What are the chances these can be
> cleaned up with a small file and a lot of patience? Would it be safe?
Should be OK, assuming you've got the non-adjustable wheel, and there's
plenty of meat left in the splines. But, if this is just rust damage,
I'd use a wire wheel instead. The file should only be necessary if the
splines have been mechanically damaged (without a wheel mounted).
> (Can the shaft be replaced from any source for a reasonable price?)
Not that I know of ... might check the usual used part sources.
Randall
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