On Sun, 3 Feb 2002, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
[good advice removed for brevity...]
> Worse case scenario...Take off the pan, drop the crankshaft, pull the
> pistons out the bottom, and proceed to whack the head from the bottom
> up. Big job, and can mean engine or tranny removal.
TR6 pistons will not remove from the bottom. The block has webs cast into
it for the cam bearings and the main bearings that interfere with the
pistons' path.
Sorry - this will not work.
Moral of this case - "crack" the head from the block _before_ you start
tearing the motor completely down.
Note: the rope trick is not as severe as you might think, but if I were
building a motor I'd want to know that this was done in the process so
that I would check the rods and crank to make certain they are not bent
in the process.
The head tends to stick to the studs on the side of the motor where the
intake/exhaust stuff hangs on. I'm not sure why, but I've theorized that
moisture can enter the stud bores in the head or that a couple of the
intake/exhaust stud bores enter into the head stud bores allowing
corrosion to occur. Bottom line - lots of penetrating oil will help your
cause.
I've also made up a "plate" that attaches to the rocker shaft stud holes.
I then hook that to my 3-ton chainfall and lifted the head free. Severely
stuck heads will usually come free with this process. It's a lot easier to
do this with the motor still in the car, the extra mass works for you when
you try to lift. I haven't got the front wheels off the gound (yet), but
the process can unload the front suspension!
> Dick T.
regards,
rml
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