It's almost a drop-in. The 4-synchro box is a little longer than the
3-synchro, so you should either elongate the existing holes or drill new
ones in the rear crossmember where the rear motor mount bolts to it.
However I didn't do this on my first conversion, and it worked fine.
Someone wrote that they had to get a longer support rod for the clutch slave
cylinder, since the TR6 flange is thicker, but I didn't have that problem.
You may need longer bolts, and longer studs for the rear of the engine
block, for the same reason.
Unless you like the look of the TR6 shifter, switch your old shift lever
into the new top cover. It's a direct swap with the earlier TR6 boxes, but
may require some adaptation on the later ones. If memory serves, you need
to transfer the domed cap with the shifter on the later TR6 so that you can
use the cross-bolt instead of the later set-screws.
If you're keeping the stock TR3 clutch, you'll probably want to switch the
input shaft housing (or 'nose') from the old transmission to the new.
Others have reported using the later nose (which is shorter) with the early
clutch, but IMO it's an easy swap, why take a chance ?
I think that's it, but if I've forgotten anything, I'm sure someone will
correct me !
Randall
>
> What does it take to get a TR6 tranny to fit a TR3? I have been
> on the list for
> around 5 years now and I have either never seen this covered, or
> else I forgot
> (much more likely) since I didn't think it mattered at the time.
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