Nelson's articles are, as always, excellent. I'd like to add a couple of
things :
In case it's not obvious, it's tough to drill straight down into the slanted
part of the fork as shown in the photo, even after you've center punched the
fork. To overcome this, start drilling at the same spot, but with the drill
bit held at right angles to the surface. Once the bit has penetrated by
1/8" or so, gradually turn the drill motor so the bit is in-line with the
broken taper pin. Don't worry if its not exactly in line, as long as the
punch can catch the edge of the broken pin, it will probably come out.
IMO the cross bolt modification is the best solution, cheap, easy and
effective. I used a 1/4-28 Grade 5 bolt with a nyloc nut. Make sure the
end of the bolt cannot foul on the front of the transmission, grind it off
if necessary. Also be sure the fork is installed the right way 'round on
the shaft before inserting the taper pin and drilling the hole through both
the fork and shaft. Guess whose shaft has two holes in it <g>
A $20 4" angle grinder from HF with a cutoff disc mounted makes short work
of those clutch shafts. My local HF no longer carries the cutoff discs, but
Home Depot does (about $1 each).
If you do have to cut the shaft to get it out (I was disassembling a
junkyard transmission that had been welded), be sure to cut between the fork
and the lever. Cutting on the other side is bound to lead to choice words
...
Randall
Dan Buettner wrote :
>
> Take a look at this page:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Clutch/ClutchForkPin/RemovingBroken
ClutchForkPins.htm
>
> It describes in detail how to deal with a broken pin. The same site
> also has a discussion of how to improve the clutch shaft setup at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm
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