This is a resend...I think I sent it before the DSL crashed and it didn't go
through!!!
Return-path: <Chip19474@aol.com>
From Chip19474 at aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 18:00:14 EDT
Subject: TR6 Sticky Clutch Resolved
To: 6pack@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Lists,
I have what I hope is a long term success story I'd like to share regarding
my sticky clutch in my '76 TR6....I know it may be premature to be so confident
with only 50 miles driven since we did the work but since it feels "sooo"
much better, it must be fixed!
The problem was a sticky (jerky) pedal when engaging the clutch - only with
the motor running......launching the car smoothly in first gear at a stop light
was a real test of finese! The car has less than 1500 miles since a total
restoration.
What we found were several possible culprits. I wish we had time to isolate
each of them to get to the root cause but that wasn't possible.
Culprit #1 - the pressure plate fingers were grooved quite noticeably around
the very ends to the point that they formed a ridge or bump around the finger
tips. Solution: we replaced the PP, disk & TO Bearing with an LUK clutch from
Moss #593-040 (TRF was out of stock on LUK and Gunst...ha, ha....all they had
was a packet of German grease!!).
Culprit #2 - the clutch operating shaft was binding on the bushings. The
restoration shop that did my trans/engine rebuild evidently installed homemade
bushings which simply weren't allowing the shaft to move freely.
Culprit #3 - The distance from the operating shaft taper pin hole to the
shaft lever was 1/4" longer than a figure which I got from list member Dick
Taylor
for a correctly drilled shaft. Solution: we found a very nice original
operating shaft which measured exactly what Dick came up with (6 7/8") so we
used
it with stock bushings reamed for smooth operation.
Culprit #4 - trans oil was leaking fairly heavily from the plate that covers
the end of the countershaft (just below the input shaft cover - front of
trans). We replaced the plate with one from an early TR6 (or 250 - not sure)
which
was twice as thick (heavier gauge steel) as the one installed. I think the
plate that I removed was actually lifting in the center when the bolts were
tightened down because it was so thin!!?? Problem solved - no leaks.
I checked the clearance between the TO bearing carrier ID and the input shaft
OD.....about .011"....some guys like the clearance to be between .008" and
.010"; Dave from TRF likes a little more....010" to .015". I think that as
long
as you're within these ranges and don't have any sharp edges on the front of
the TO bearing carrier, you should be okay.
Well, that's my story. I have a few digital photos of the PP fingers - if
anyone is interested, I'll send them to you.
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA USA
1976 TR6 #CF57822U
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