> One question is, is it normal to have to readjust the hubs?
Most likely this means the seal wasn't properly compressed when you adjusted
them the first time. I've also heard talk of new seals that are too thick
causing this problem.
> I didn't
> actually replace the bearings because they were only about 2 or 3 years
> old and couldn't have more than about 3000 miles on 'em.
Far more important, IMO, to inspect them. Dirt and grit can ruin bearings
very quickly; while bearings that kept clean and lubed can easily go 100,000
miles.
> Another question: Right now the castellated nuts are threaded onto the
> spindle far enough that the cotter pins aren't nestled into the little
> slots quite as securely as I'd like. I mean, they're in there, and the
> nuts won't turn. But if I have to tighten them up AGAIN (which I doubt)
> then I'll have to shim the nuts out with an additional washer so that
> the nuts will properly engage the cotter pins. Does this indicate
> anything ominous to any of you? (I should point out that the spindles
> are fairly new about 2 or 3 years old, and came from VB)
I'd want to be certain the spindles aren't loose in the vertical links.
Otherwise, it's probably just poorly made parts, no big surprise from VB.
> I actually have seriously considered buying different springs, (like
> from GoodParts) but we just had another baby girl about 2 months ago,
> and right now coil springs are not a top priority!!
>
> I appreciate any input and suggestions.
You could consider having a spring shop trim down the springs you have, or
even doing it yourself. It's not rocket science, but you will need to do
some calculations to know how much to trim. You can cut them with a $20
angle grinder & cutoff wheel from HF, but be sure to keep the spring as cool
as possible so the temper will only be drawn right at the cut. A spray
bottle full of distilled water with a couple drops of dishwashing soap (to
lower surface tension) works well.
Randall
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