Hi Bill, I just went through this. There is no captive nut for the rear bolts
but for the front one, you can get a socket up there behind/alongside the
spring. I think I used something like a12 inch extension, no universals. I put
the nut in the socket and then aligned it from the top with an awl and was able
to get the bolt started fairly easily. I didn't undo the rear one completely,
just enough to rotate the fulcrum pin to where I could remove the upper A arm.
I don't remember what specific combination of extensions I used to get on that
nut to retighten it. I thought about putting a little JB Weld on the nut first
so it would become a capture nut, but decided against it for some reason or
other I can't remember.
HTH, Bob
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Bill Brewer" <bbrewer@tvwireless.net>
> I am working on the upper A-arms on my TR3. I am investigated a
> mysterious and elusive clunk that is in the drivers side brake/suspension. I
> decided to change out the upper fulcrum and put in poly bushings while I was
> in there. I found that I was missing a bolt on the back side of the fulcrum
> (the rear bolt) and the other rear bolt was the wrong size with the nut loose.
> My question is: How to you get a nut on the rear bolt on the back side of
> the fulcrum? Can you get a long socket extension up beside the shock? Is there
> supposed to be a captive nut welded in there?
> Please tell me that I don't have to remove the shock!
>
> Bill Brewer
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