> 1. I have new copper brake lines ready to install. They are not bent
> to shape, but rather, are either straight or in large coils, perhaps
> 10 inches in diameter. What is the best way to bend them to shape
> without kinking them?
I've only helped a friend once with "copper" brake lines, but we found that most
gentle curves could be formed by hand with a little care. I also have a
collection of simple tubing mandrels, which we used for tighter bends. Sorry, I
can't seem to find any equivalents on the web just now, and I have no idea where
I bought them ... several different places many years ago is all I recall.
Probably leftovers from my brief career in HVAC. Mine don't have levers or
rollers, just a disc with a groove around the edge and a 'finger' of metal to
hold one side of the line while you put force on the other side to bend it
around the disc. The groove helps support the sides of the line to keep it from
crimping, while the diameter of the disc sets the radius of the bend. I like to
keep the bends as gentle as possible (which is why I have several different
tools, with different size discs).
> 2. Are there any tricks about how to get the curvy pieces in place?
Didn't someone just post a link to instructions for this ? Step 3 or so was to
remove the engine ...
> 3. I know many of you swear by DOT5 brake fluid.
I certainly do.
> I understand one must be careful not to get bubbles in it.
Which is pretty easy. Just let it "breathe" for a bit after you add to the MC
... go enjoy your favorite beverage or something.
> If there is
> a microliter of old stuff left behind, it won't blow up or anything
> like cars do in the movies, will it?
I've done this several times now, and it seems to work out just fine. The
remaining glycol will stay apart from the DOT 5 ... although they are fully
compatible, they don't mix. And it will continue to deteriorate with time, as
well as "vacuuming up" any dirt (like wear particles from the seals), and the
purple dye from the DOT 5. The end result seems to be a black, gooey mess that
you will find if you ever do disassemble the cylinders ... but it doesn't cause
any problems that I can see. Doesn't block passages or get on the sealing
surfaces, just stays in the "dead" area in the bottom.
Randall
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|