Gary,
I just happened to have mine removed and looked at the internals. At the
bottom of the screw stem is a flat piece that seals the against the bottom
of the valve and seals it when closed. When the stem is unscrewed (open)
the flat piece comes up with the stem and allows water to pass below the
piece into the horizontal tube. If you take the horizontal tube off of the
valve you should be able to see if the sealing part has become disconnected
which would restrict the water. You can also see if the horizontal valve
has rust in it and has become clogged which is normal as the tube is steel.
The other option is to just remove the top part of the valve which easily
unscrews from the body to check the inside.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] heater control valve
Newly restored tr-3 with over-hauled engine. Installed new heater control
valve. Was getting NO heat to heater when engine was fully warmed up.
(could grab heater hoses with bare hands.....very very lukewarm). I then
fully closed the heater control valve and re-opened. Results were that I
got heat again and hoses were almost too hot to hold. Since then I felt the
hoses and they were very warm but didn't feel quit at hot.
I just have a simple question. Does anyone know how the internals of the
heater control valve are made? Is the shaft that screws up and down
fastened to something that blocks the water flow and possibly could come
loose? I'm wondering if the shaft and whatever blocks the water in the
valve are no longer fastened (or are loose/floppy) that could explain why I
might have differing amounts of heating through the heater.
Just wondering.
gary n.
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