> Talking about brake lights, my almost-finished 57 restoration
> has no brake
> lights. Power is flowing to the switch on the 5-way
> connector but nothing
> in the other wire. Can it be anything other than the switch
> which screws
> into the connector?
You're checking the output with someone standing on the brake pedal? Takes a
fair amount to trigger the switch, one of the reasons
I don't like it.
If so, then pretty much has to be the switch. If there were a short somewhere,
it would have blown the fuse.
> I have several of these things: any way of knowing if they
> work off the
> car?
You could try hitting them with air pressure, see if they close. I don't know
what the spec is, but I would think 90 psi would be
enough.
> And is brake fluid going to go everywhere / am I going
> to have to
> re-bleed the system if I change the unit out?
Last time I changed one, I used a modified F-clamp to hold the brake pedal
partially down, to close the valve to the reservoir.
That greatly limited the amount of fluif that could trickle out of the open
connection. I still made the swap as quickly as
possible, which may be why I didn't need to bleed afterwards. Or maybe I just
got lucky.
But that was long ago; I got so frustrated with those switches failing that I
converted to a mechanically operated switch back in
the 90s. This was done in a hurry, obviously, but it has worked very well
since 2008
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS13571L/DSCF0029_crop.jpg.html
Before that, I had the switch stuck in the pedal box, which also worked well
but wasn't as well hidden
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS39781LO/DSCF0001.jpg.html
-- Randall
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|
