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Thanks Jack,
I didn't have any trouble removing the screw once I could get a screwdriver=
on it. The head was so rounded from previous owners, that nothing would g=
rab. I wound up cutting a slot in the head and using a straight screwdrive=
r and it worked fine. My challenge was trying to thread an 8 or 10 (I don'=
t recall) 32 screw into the body and found it did not thread beyond a coupl=
e of turns. I feared it was Whitworth or something else, didn't consider m=
etric.
Thanks for the response. Another list reader sent me information that they=
were M5 0.8,and just slightly over 12 mm long, so I believe that an M5 0.8=
12 would be an acceptable substitute. I am thinking about going to that w=
ith cap screws so it will be obvious not to use a Phillips on a Pozidriv sc=
rewhead. =20
Best regards,
David Gill
=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack McGahey <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
Cc: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>; davgil <davgil@aol.com>; Triumph=
s <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2018 7:37 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] ZS 175 carbs
If you have standard thread screws holding the dashpot covers on the Stromb=
erg carbs in your Stag - that could explain why they are hard to come out. =
;-)
I just pulled one out of a Stag carb and in turns quite easily into an M5 0=
.8 thread checker. Since this came up today, I=E2=80=99ve done the same wit=
h TR6 carbs, TR7 carbs, TR8 carbs, and some new screws I pulled out of the =
bag they came from Moss in. They all have the same part number and they are=
all M5 0.8. Same part number for all CD 175s and the CD 150s on GT6s
I did not know this until it came up today - I=E2=80=99ve always ordered th=
e correct part - after rebuilding hundreds of these carbs, I knew they were=
n=E2=80=99t SAE, but I always figured they were Whitworth or British Standa=
rd - or something odd like that - I was as surprised as anybody when they t=
urned easily into an M5 0.8 thread checker.
If you still don=E2=80=99t believe me, I can send pictures.
Cheers,
Jack Mc
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 1, 2018, at 4:51 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com> wrote:
The Stag has ZS carbs. Those screws are pozi drive heads. But the screws do=
n't show that pozi. drive symbol on the head. Standard not metric. Some of =
mine were buggered by POs. Trying to remove them with standard Philips scre=
w driver
Sujit
71 Stag
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 11:02 AM Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote:
David,
See if a #10 or #8 machine thread works. It is one of these, but I don't r=
emember which. I always buy new bolts and lock washers from the hardware s=
tore for carb top covers. You can buy stainless. And it doesn't cost as m=
uch.
My friend had metric size bolts holding his carb tops on his TR8. I suspec=
t that was because a previous owner put them in because they were close in =
size and he just forced them in because they were into aluminum.
What are you referring to for damper 0-rings? If you are referring to the =
tiny one at the bottom of the dashpot that holds the dashpot oil around the=
metering needle, then yes that is a standard size o-ring that you can buy.=
The o-ring around the fuel reservoir plug is standard and can be bought t=
oo.
Creig
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of davgil@aol.co=
m <davgil@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2018 8:44 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] ZS 175 carbs
=20
I worked on the carbs on my 1976 TR6 this weekend, one of the needle adjust=
ments screws moved and I was able to lean the carb I needed for some improv=
ement. A couple of questions, does anyone know the specs on the screws hol=
ding the top cover to the body of the carb? Someone (not me - honest) bugg=
ered them up and I had to cut a slot on one to back it out. I would like t=
o just replace them all. Moss has them at $1.89 apiece but that seems a bi=
t much. I had a couple of screws in my loose screw bin that looked correct=
but did not seem to fully thread into the carb body and I didn't want to f=
orce them and ruin the threads. Also, if the damper o-rings are a standard=
size that I can pick up at a local FLAPS instead of ordering them, i would=
appreciate knowing the specs on those as well. =20
Thanks
David Gill
1976 TR6
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiv=
e
tag@gmail.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiv=
e
x@aol.com
------=_Part_26962_1572994433.1538481611008
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
<div>Thanks J<font size=3D"2">ack,</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">I didn't have any trouble removing the screw once I c=
ould get a screwdriver on it. The head was so rounded from previous o=
wners, that nothing would grab. I wound up cutting a slot in the head=
and using a straight screwdriver and it worked fine. My challenge wa=
s trying to thread an 8 or 10 (I don't recall) 32 screw into the body and f=
ound it did not thread beyond a couple of turns. I feared it was Whit=
worth or something else, didn't consider metric.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Thanks for the response. Another list reader se=
nt me information that they were M5 0.8,and just slightly over 12 mm long, =
so I believe that an M5 0.8 12 would be an acceptable substitute. I a=
m thinking about going to that with cap screws so it will be obvious not to=
use a Phillips on a Pozidriv screwhead. <br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Best regards,</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">David Gill<br>
</font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Jack McGahey <McGaheyRx@aol.com><br>
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>; davgil <davgil@aol.com&=
gt;; Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2018 7:37 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] ZS 175 carbs<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_2_15b4ce4f-9388-4135-956b-f6318272414f">
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"aolReplacedBody">If you have standard thread scr=
ews holding the dashpot covers on the Stromberg carbs in your Stag - that c=
ould explain why they are hard to come out. ;-)
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I just pulled one out of a Stag carb and in turns quite easily into an=
M5 0.8 thread checker. Since this came up today, I=E2=80=99ve done the sam=
e with TR6 carbs, TR7 carbs, TR8 carbs, and some new screws I pulled out of=
the bag they came from Moss in. They all have the same part number and the=
y are all M5 0.8. Same part number for all CD 175s and the CD 150s on GT6s<=
/div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I did not know this until it came up today - I=E2=80=99ve always order=
ed the correct part - after rebuilding hundreds of these carbs, I knew they=
weren=E2=80=99t SAE, but I always figured they were Whitworth or British S=
tandard - or something odd like that - I was as surprised as anybody when t=
hey turned easily into an M5 0.8 thread checker.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If you still don=E2=80=99t believe me, I can send pictures.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Cheers,</div>
<div>Jack Mc</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div id=3D"aolmail_AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPad</div>
<div><br>
On Oct 1, 2018, at 4:51 PM, Sujit Roy <<a target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noope=
ner noreferrer" href=3D"mailto:triumphstag@gmail.com";>triumphstag@gmail.com=
</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">The Stag has ZS carbs. Those screws are pozi drive heads.=
But the screws don't show that pozi. drive symbol on the head. Standard no=
t metric. Some of mine were buggered by POs. Trying to remove them with sta=
ndard Philips screw driver
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Sujit</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">71 Stag</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"aolmail_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 11:02 AM Creig Houghtaling <<a tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"mailto:creig555@live.com=
">creig555@live.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"aolmail_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
David,</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
See if a #10 or #8 machine thread works. It is one of these, but I do=
n't remember which. I always buy new bolts and lock washers from the =
hardware store for carb top covers. You can buy stainless. And =
it doesn't cost as much.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
My friend had metric size bolts holding his carb tops on his TR8. I s=
uspect that was because a previous owner put them in because they were clos=
e in size and he just forced them in because they were into aluminum.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
What are you referring to for damper 0-rings? If you are referring to=
the tiny one at the bottom of the dashpot that holds the dashpot oil aroun=
d the metering needle, then yes that is a standard size o-ring that you can=
buy. The o-ring around the fuel reservoir
plug is standard and can be bought too.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
Creig</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:12pt">
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"aolmail_m_-8950837643176549286divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font s=
tyle=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>F=
rom:</b> Triumphs <<a target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=
=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net=
</a>> on behalf of <a target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=
=3D"mailto:davgil@aol.com";>davgil@aol.com</a> <<a target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"mailto:davgil@aol.com";>davgil@aol.com</a>&=
gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 1, 2018 8:44 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"mailto:=
triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] ZS 175 carbs</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"arial" color=3D"black">
<div><font size=3D"2">I worked on the carbs on my 1976 TR6 this weekend, on=
e of the needle adjustments screws moved and I was able to lean the carb I =
needed for some improvement. A couple of questions, does anyone know =
the specs on the screws holding the top
cover to the body of the carb? Someone (not me - honest) buggered th=
em up and I had to cut a slot on one to back it out. I would like to =
just replace them all. Moss has them at $1.89 apiece but that seems a=
bit much. I had a couple of screws in my loose
screw bin that looked correct but did not seem to fully thread into the ca=
rb body and I didn't want to force them and ruin the threads. Also, i=
f the damper o-rings are a standard size that I can pick up at a local FLAP=
S instead of ordering them, i would appreciate
knowing the specs on those as well. <br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Thanks</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">David Gill</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">1976 TR6</font><br>
</div>
</font></div>
</div>
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</blockquote></div>
</div>
</blockquote><blockquote>
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</blockquote></div>
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