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There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals dra=
w a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock alternator =
can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it may be that =
the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all po=
wer to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LE=
Ds you=E2=80=99re using are sensitive enough to show the difference in volt=
age.
To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what i=
t does when the tail lights and flashers are both on. If I=E2=80=99m right=
, you=E2=80=99ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals.=
The only fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can ke=
ep up with the lights at idle. (I=E2=80=99m not certain, but I think there=
is a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but g=
ive more current across the board. Check with the Jaguar folks.)
Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much le=
ss sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such thing=
s. I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter.
To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative bat=
tery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead=
of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how we=
ll they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything m=
ore than that represents a problem that could be fixed.
I=E2=80=99m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired. On my TR3, all t=
he rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip=
nuts fastened to the sheet metal. Very insecure, especially if the sheet =
metal has a fresh coat of paint. =20
However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire. So=
, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holder=
s, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts.
-- Randall
From: Roger Elliott
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem
Here's the problem.=C2=A0 When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher=
,=20
the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.=C2=A0 They don't go on and=
=20
off but the get brighter and dimmer.=C2=A0 When the third brake light is=20
hooked up it does the same thing.
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>There may not be a good solution, Ro=
ger.=C2=A0 The incandescent turn signals draw a fair amount of current, whi=
ch is likely more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail li=
ghts and so on) at idle.=C2=A0 So it may be that the battery voltage is dro=
pping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to=C2=A0 12.6 =
volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you=E2=80=99re usi=
ng are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage.</p><p class=3DMs=
oNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>To check, connect a good =
voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what it does when the tail ligh=
ts and flashers are both on.=C2=A0 If I=E2=80=99m right, you=E2=80=99ll see=
the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals.=C2=A0 The only fix =
would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with the =
lights at idle.=C2=A0 (I=E2=80=99m not certain, but I think there is a Lest=
er unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more c=
urrent across the board.=C2=A0 Check with the Jaguar folks.)</p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Another fix might be LE=
Ds that use an active current source (so are much less sensitive to supply =
voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such things.=C2=A0 I made my own =
using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal=
><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>To check for grounding issues, I=
suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starte=
r cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.=C2=A0 Then=
you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually ground=
ed.=C2=A0 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represen=
ts a problem that could be fixed.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I=E2=80=99m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are=
wired.=C2=A0 On my TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mount=
ing screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.=C2=A0 Very=
insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint.=C2=A0 <=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>However, =
each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire.=C2=A0 So, I =
made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holders, t=
hen leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts.</p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- Randall<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style=3D'mso-element=
:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0=
in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From:=
</b><a href=3D"mailto:elliottr@rmi.net";>Roger Elliott</a><br><b>Sent: </b>=
Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@=
autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[TR] TR250 L=
ED tail light problem</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p=
class=3DMsoNormal>Here's the problem. When the tail lights are on an=
d I use the flasher, </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>the tail/brake lights flicker=
with the flasher. They don't go on and </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>off =
but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is </p><p=
class=3DMsoNormal>hooked up it does the same thing.</p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></bo=
dy></html>=
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