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Re: [TR] rear seal

To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal
From: bill beecher <notakitcar@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 21:28:44 -0600
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <DM6PR19MB31303108B46AEE443E8EC652B9FA0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
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Just finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance f=
rom Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book.  So far no leak at the rear, =F0=9F=A4=9E.  =
Follow the steps, you will succeed. =20
Bill B
TS30800L


#dontkillgrandma

On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotma=
il.com> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF
Dave-

I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting t=
he old seal out.  Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a too=
l I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well a=
s a seal puller.

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut=20
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, a=
nd remove the castle nut.
4) Pull the old seal.

The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal=
 and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. =20

5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting=
 on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and=
 drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. =20
7  Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.  Since there is no=
 collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to fac=
tory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )

Randy=20



From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of dave <dave@ran=
teer.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] rear seal
=20
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4=
a engine.
=20
Mine leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it down.
<thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg>
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Just finished that job using the Viton seal=
 from Joe Alexander and guidance from Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book. &nbsp;So f=
ar no leak at the rear, =F0=9F=A4=9E. &nbsp;Follow the steps, you will succe=
ed. &nbsp;<div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L</div><div><br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">=
#dontkillgrandma</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Rand=
y and Valerie DeRuiter &lt;deruiterville@hotmail.com&gt; wrote:<br><br></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-12=
52">



<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Dave-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting t=
he old seal out.&nbsp; Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a=
 tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years&nbsp;ago which has work=
ed well as a seal puller.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Basic steps:</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, a=
nd remove the castle nut.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
4) Pull the old seal.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal=
 and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>=

<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting=
 on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and=
 drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
7&nbsp; Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since t=
here is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued b=
ack to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div=
>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" col=
or=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs-b=
ounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of dave &lt;dave@ranteer.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net &lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div class=3D"x_WordSection1">
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4=
a engine.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
Mine leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it down.</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>


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