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Re: [TR] rear seal

To: "bill beecher" <notakitcar@yahoo.com>, "Randy and Valerie DeRuiter" <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 09:41:01 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Opps the original post was about the rear engine seal.

From: Jerry Van Vlack=20
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2020 9:37 AM
To: bill beecher ; Randy and Valerie DeRuiter=20
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

Bill I think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear engine =
seal.=20

From: bill beecher=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM
To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter=20
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

Just finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and =
guidance from Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book.  So far no leak at the rear, =
=F0=9F=A4=9E.  Follow the steps, you will succeed.  =20
Bill B
TS30800L



#dontkillgrandma

On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter =
<deruiterville@hotmail.com> wrote:


=EF=BB=BF=20
Dave-

I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is =
getting the old seal out.  Pick your favorite method, but I've settled =
on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which =
has worked well as a seal puller.

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut=20
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange =
steady, and remove the castle nut.
4) Pull the old seal.

The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the =
seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. =20

5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider =
putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), =
and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. =20
7  Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.  Since there =
is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued =
back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )

Randy=20




-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of dave =
<dave@ranteer.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] rear seal=20

Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a =
TR3/4/4a engine.



Mine leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it down.

<thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg>
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
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<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Opps the original post was about the rear engine seal.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3Djerryvv@roadrunner.com>Jerry Van Vlack</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 25, 2020 9:37 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dnotakitcar@yahoo.com>bill beecher</A> ; <A=20
title=3Dderuiterville@hotmail.com>Randy and Valerie DeRuiter</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dtriumphs@autox.team.net>triumphs@autox.team.net</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] rear seal</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Bill I think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear =
engine=20
seal. </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dnotakitcar@yahoo.com>bill=20
beecher</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dderuiterville@hotmail.com>Randy and Valerie=20
DeRuiter</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dtriumphs@autox.team.net>triumphs@autox.team.net</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] rear seal</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>Just=20
finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance =
from Kas=20
Kastner=E2=80=99s book.&nbsp; So far no leak at the rear, =
=F0=9F=A4=9E.&nbsp; Follow the steps,=20
you will succeed.&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<DIV>Bill B</DIV>
<DIV>TS30800L</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>#dontkillgrandma</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr><BR>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie =
DeRuiter=20
&lt;deruiterville@hotmail.com&gt; wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>=EF=BB=BF=20
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Dave-</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">I've=20
done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting =
the old=20
seal out.&nbsp; Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a =
tool I=20
bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well =
as a seal=20
puller.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Basic=20
steps:</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">1)=20
Unbolt driveshaft</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">2)=20
Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">3)=20
Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, =
and=20
remove the castle nut.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">4)=20
Pull the old seal.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">The=20
attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal =
and I=20
hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">5)=20
Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider =
putting on a=20
repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">6)=20
Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), =
and drive=20
the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">7&nbsp;=20
Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since there =
is no=20
collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to =
factory=20
settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Randy=20
</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=3Dappendonsend></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,helvetica,sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<HR tabIndex=3D-1 style=3D"WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY: inline-block">

<DIV id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg dir=3Dltr><FONT style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" =
color=3D#000000=20
face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> Triumphs=20
&lt;triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of dave=20
&lt;dave@ranteer.com&gt;<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 =

PM<BR><B>To:</B> triumphs@autox.team.net=20
&lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;<BR><B>Subject:</B> [TR] rear seal</FONT> =

<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV lang=3DEN-US style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">
<DIV class=3Dx_WordSection1>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">Looking=20
for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4a=20
engine.</P>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">Mine=20
leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it =
down.</P></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&lt;thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg&gt;</DIV><SPA=
N>**=20
triumphs@autox.team.net **</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Donate:=20
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp;=20
Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar@yahoo.com</SPAN=
><BR></DIV></DIV>
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