[6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

Thu Jun 11 14:06:58 MDT 2015

James, 
I sense the potential for a serious case of shipwrights disease setting in. It happened to me on my 71 TR6 rustoration a few years ago. DPO had welded a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4" angle iron the full length of the inside sill from the firewall to the rear panel with full length welds. Ever being the curious engineer, I had to see what was underneath that and proceeded to grind welds to extract the angle iron. I'm glad I did since both four-bolt tub mounts to the frame  were completely rusted through meaning the left side of the tub was not bolted down. That lead to a full soda blasting of the body to see what other surprises there were which then lead to new sills and floor pans installed after the door opening was well braced along with a number of other sheet metal parts. It also uncovered some frame damage that I repaired and further descended into a full frame off. And all I wanted originally was a daily driver!  

In all, as painful as it was, I'm glad I did it the way I did but it took 3 years. That's the wonder of owning these old cars and keeping them on the road. Every nod and thumbs-up I get when driving my 6 confirms I made the right decision.  

I recently picked up a 59 TR3 barn find and made sure I more thoroughly inspected the sheet metal but am fully expecting some surprises as I dig into it. 

In the end, we need to make the decisions on what needs to be done to make the car safe to drive versus what would be nice to do. It sounds like from what you're saying, the rest of the car is sound and a couple of patches will get you on the road. If you can find the patches, I'm sure a traveling welder can tack them in for a reasonable charge. Another alternative is to contact the local vo-tech and see they need a donor project for the students. You never know if the instructor will take a liking to a LBC project. Lastly, another option is to go to a regular body shop and negotiate a flat price as a filler job to be completed within x weeks/months (be sure to set a complete by date). They may give it to an apprentice and cut you a good deal if they use it as a filler between jobs. 

Good luck in deciding which way to go. I hope my 2 cents is helpful. 

Ron Weber71TR659TR3A in kit form

From: Larry Young via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
 To: 6pack at autox.team.net 
 Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 3:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

 James,
 I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model T guy, I have done my share.  I agree with everyone that suggested patching.  A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original metal and is just as strong.  When I had the rockers repaired, I bought the replacement piece.  Since it was just rusted at the front, the body guy suggested we just cut off the front part and weld it in, because he could not duplicate the original spot welds.  I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller).  They are cheaper and easier to use than a TIG, but you will have to do some grinding. If money is an issue, I have also used good old fashioned gas hammer welding.  Here is an example of stuff I've done with my MIG - www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies. Oklahoma is 49th in education, but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a good way to learn. 

 I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show car and do not drive it like one.  I did want to keep it original, because back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it.  As far as costs go,  you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast and probably 1K in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat).  Its worth it, because modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better than original. I know the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks working on it.  On top of those costs, I also stripped my frame and had it blasted and epoxy primed.  I know you don't want to do all of this now, but if you have to take the body off, then .......
 Larry Young

 On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack wrote:

 #yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --.yiv5495278081hmmessage P{margin:0px;padding:0px;}#yiv5495278081 body.yiv5495278081hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}#yiv5495278081  Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.  #yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --.yiv5495278081ExternalClass #yiv5495278081ecxyiv5169001218 body.yiv5495278081ecxyiv5169001218hmmessage {font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}#yiv5495278081  
   I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with all these rusted out sections, i need to repair them first.  not 

  I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LEARN to weld! Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer, but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find friends of friends instruct me. I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall  near the commission plates . probably a 1"x5" section. 
  So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner section directly under the fuse box, master cylinder area. Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can extract this crazy multi-sided section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or do it myself.  
  Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender sections? Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer if someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good part that is intact. 
  Thanks. 
  James 

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