[Fot] GT6 cooling
Gt6steve at aol.com
Gt6steve at aol.com
Tue Feb 11 07:01:29 MST 2014
Yeah,
Kas always advocated a 3-5 ratio as a starting point for the waterpump
speed. I was good with that for many years but Cal Speedway had such a long
high speed straight that I would suddenly spike the temp after the banking.
A slightly larger pulley to reduce the pump speed fixed that. I suppose I
could figure the critical RPM but that may well vary with varios
restrictions to flow? I recall the blanking plate in my tStat housing has a hole
about the size of a dime.
Ed's car has the large diameter crank pulley I think which made the big
WP pulley necessary.
In a message dated 2/11/2014 5:54:12 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sbarr at McCarty-Law.com writes:
To make sure I understand what you're saying - the GT6 SHOULD be using a
large diameter pulley on the water pump in order to slow it down and prevent
cavitation, right?
Dad's still working on getting his GT6 together. It's been DAMN cold in
his garage this winter and he's feeling a little old to roll around on a
concrete floor when it's minus 15 outside. Me too, for that matter...
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Gt6steve at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:41 AM
To: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 cooling
Ed, do you still have the LARGE diameter spitty water pump pulley on the
car or did one of the "experts" take it off.
These crude pumps cavitate badly and the temp will make a sudden spike
upward, usually after a long straight.
The car showed evidence that they had been struggling with the cooling
before it was parked in the early nineties. The Rad could well be undersize
as noted above. AFCO racing products sell a supermodified alloy rad that
they'll customize for your hoses. Low nose cars. Mine is 11x22x4.5?? and
I
NEVER overheat. After I solved the cavitation at Cal Speedway, that
is....
In a message dated 2/11/2014 5:33:39 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
igofaster at att.net writes:
while I'm a witness that sometimes these Triumphs can be a pill, I've
always been aware having owned a dozen or so that heating was as issue,
especially in Texas. My racer (built by Bob Davis) has the larger cross flow
Griffin aluminum radiatorb& I can get you the part number if you wish.
What I have
noticed and what is applied when I drain or refill is two things. Bob
placed a tap in the top of the thermostat housing with a hex drive screw to
make it flush. I'll fill my radiator with the tap screw out to let air flow
and the car slightly jacked up in the rear. I do my final topping off
with a food type plunger while the car is elevated. With the replacement
radiator lower you have to make sure all the air is out of the system. My
overflow tank and fill tank is mounted up behind the engine on the firewall
perch. After running the motor , I re-check and top off again to make sure
there is no air in the system. The thermostat housing also has a smaller
restrictor passage. I do run a fan. Cold days does require blocking the oil
cooler which is also located in the front below the radiator. I have to
restrict air on the cooler and the filter on mild days to get over 175
degrees. My understanding is we should try to get oil temps around 220. If you
do these things, over heating because of water flow should not be your
problem.
If you want I can sen you some detailed photosb& Bobby Whitehead
1970 GT-6+ DPB
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