[Fot] GT6 cooling

Gt6steve at aol.com Gt6steve at aol.com
Tue Feb 11 07:01:29 MST 2014


Yeah,
 
Kas always advocated a 3-5 ratio as a starting point for the waterpump  
speed.  I was good with that for many years but Cal Speedway had such a  long 
high speed straight that I would suddenly spike the temp after the  banking.  
A slightly larger pulley to reduce the pump speed fixed  that.  I suppose I 
could figure the critical RPM but that may well vary  with varios 
restrictions to flow?  I recall the blanking plate in my tStat  housing has a hole 
about the size of a dime.
 
Ed's car has the large diameter crank pulley  I think which made the  big 
WP pulley necessary.
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/11/2014 5:54:12 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
sbarr at McCarty-Law.com writes:

To make  sure I understand what you're saying - the GT6 SHOULD be using a 
large  diameter pulley on the water pump in order to slow it down and prevent 
 cavitation, right?

Dad's still working on getting his GT6  together.  It's been DAMN cold in 
his garage this winter and he's feeling  a little old to roll around on a 
concrete floor when it's minus 15  outside.  Me too, for that matter...

Scott

-----Original  Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Gt6steve at aol.com
Sent:  Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:41 AM
To: igofaster at att.net;  fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 cooling

Ed, do you still  have the LARGE diameter spitty water pump pulley on the 
car or did one of the  "experts" take it off.

These crude pumps cavitate badly and the temp  will make a sudden spike 
upward, usually after a long straight.

The car  showed evidence that they had been struggling with the cooling 
before it was  parked in the early nineties.  The Rad could well be  undersize 
as  noted above.  AFCO racing products sell a supermodified alloy  rad  that 
they'll customize for your hoses. Low nose cars.  Mine is   11x22x4.5?? and 
I 

NEVER overheat.  After I solved the cavitation  at Cal Speedway, that  
is....


In a message dated 2/11/2014  5:33:39 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
igofaster at att.net  writes:

while  I'm a witness that sometimes these Triumphs can be  a pill, I've 
always been  aware having owned a dozen or so that heating  was as issue, 
especially  in Texas. My racer (built by Bob Davis) has the  larger cross flow  
Griffin aluminum radiatorb& I can get you the part  number if you  wish.
What I have
noticed and what is applied when I  drain or refill is  two things. Bob 
placed a tap in the top of the  thermostat housing with a  hex drive screw to 
make it flush. I'll fill my  radiator with the tap screw  out to let air flow 
and the car slightly  jacked up in the rear. I do my  final topping off 
with a food type  plunger while the car is elevated. With  the replacement 
radiator lower  you have to make sure all the air is out of  the system. My 
overflow tank  and fill tank is mounted up behind the engine  on the firewall 
perch.  After running the motor , I re-check and top off  again to make sure  
there is no air in the system. The thermostat housing  also has a smaller  
restrictor passage. I do run a fan. Cold days does  require blocking the  oil 
cooler which is also located in the front below  the radiator. I have  to 
restrict air on the cooler and the filter on mild  days to get over  175 
degrees. My understanding is we should try to get oil  temps around  220. If you 
do these things, over heating because of water  flow should  not be your 
problem.
If you want I can sen you some detailed   photosb& Bobby Whitehead
1970 GT-6+  DPB
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