[Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

[davehogye]

Hi Jack, 
RevingtonTR sells an adjustable inner fulcrum pin. I have one on my TR3 and I know of a few others that use it as well. No cutting and or welding is needed. 
It has been suggested that keeping the upper arms long is beneficial. 

// Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Jack Brooks" <JIBrooks at Live.com> 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 10:34:14 PM 
Subject: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward 



I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 parts. I will use “the” Jag ball joint and shim it as required. Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm. I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way. I know I can’t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems too easy. None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure. 



So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution? What am I missing? 



Thanks in advance, 



Jack 

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