[Fot] squaring pads

[Phil Gott]

The pads wear unevenly both radially and a bit circumferentially due to different surface speeds and friction forces. As the pads wear unevenly they “cock” in the caliper and bind up. The more wear, the greater the binding. 
Using some sort of a device (surface grinder, drill press etc with a good dust collector and mask for the operator) to make the face of the friction material parallel to the backing plate solves this issue.
Yes, this does change the surface of the pad presented to the rotor. I do not change rotors as they are in good shape. Any small to microscopic irregularities between the two quickly get dealt with during the first session out after squaring the pads. This would be the same as putting new pads on the car with the old rotors. Just treat the first few laps as if you are bedding in new brakes, which to some extent you are (except for temperature effects).
Different from a street machine where rust and grit take their toll in the rotor surface.
Phil Gott
114 TR4A

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2019, at 10:33 AM, ralph hansen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> not to rain on the parade but, are you turning the rotors each time to make sure they are square also? if not, you now have unmatched surfaces - in the old days with good metal rotors I could see a slight advantage, these days with the good pads we get, and soft rotors they wear together, you might actually get a very slight increase in surface contact due to the angles and dangles - and, as you machine the rotors you lose mass, the all important heat sink that makes brakes work....
> 
> On Saturday, July 20, 2019, 07:19:46 PM CDT, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Squaring up the pads? Please tell me more, I'm still learning. Thanks!
> 
> -Marhieu
> 
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