[Fot] TR2/3/4 engine cooling
Michael Porter
mdporter at dfn.com
Sun May 12 21:13:13 MDT 2019
On 5/12/2019 7:15 PM, Peter Vucinic via Fot wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> Went through that many years ago. Could never get it to function
> properly on my TR4. Gave up in the end is it was all way too hard and
> complicated. Engine always ran hot no matter what I did. I had an
> electronic controller which gave variable speed to the pump unit. But
> that didn’t make any difference in my case.
>
Unfortunately, pumps are almost always rated by their flow rate through
an open orifice, and one has to figure in the pumping losses through the
engine. So, if an engine produces x amount of heat per minute, then the
actual flow rate, given the specific heat of water, has to be able to
remove x amount of heat per minute. A cast-iron engine with lots of
rusty-crusties in the passages is certainly going to have a flow rate a
fair amount lower than an open orifice (not that those rusty-crusties
aren't important--heat transfer off of rusty cast iron is higher than
with any other metal because of the surface area).
The other big problem with pumps is that one needs to know their flow at
specific head pressures, because without the pump being able to build
pressure and still move fluid, hot-running engines will inevitably
succumb to nucleate boiling and overheat.
In theory, one could have an electric pump that's more efficient than a
mechanical one, in the same way that electric fans, with the maximum
efficiency blade pitch matched to the motor rpm, are more efficient than
engine-driven fans. However, I suspect that the makers of the kits out
there are assembling them from the parts available, not engineering them
to requirements.
Cheers.
--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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