[Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

Michael Salter michaelsalter at gmail.com
Tue Jun 20 09:55:08 MDT 2023


Point of interest  ... there's actually a special tool for removing the
pump.
I think I've only ever used it once!!



On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws.
> It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt
> - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of
> large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on
> you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
> ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies
> that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
> the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark
> but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done
> inserting it the wrong way around."
>
>
> Roger,
>
> Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so missed
> many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>
> A few minor corrections ...
> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare shaft -
> I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange and
> the OD.
> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>
> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is
> an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt -
> actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of
> large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on
> you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
> ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies
> that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
> the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark
> but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done
> inserting it the wrong way around.
>
> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter
> plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the
> release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring retention all
> together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful
> threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times
> lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !
> rg
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare
>> gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special
>> tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>>
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>>  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get
>>> that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>>
>>> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>>
>>> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
>>> 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the
>>> gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I
>>> did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see
>>> attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
>>> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a
>>> half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>>> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's
>>> only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and
>>> tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
>>> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while
>>> David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
>>>
>>> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or
>>> you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
>>>
>>> bs
>>>
>>> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
>>> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
>>> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
>>> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
>>> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
>>> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>>> get past it?
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
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