[Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Jun 20 10:11:19 MDT 2023
Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a
thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC insisted a
mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a picture of every
tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I had a copy of it,
always good for a chuckle, but that computer was stolen; anyone still
have it?
On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Point of interest ... there's actually a special tool for removing
> the pump.
> I think I've only ever used it once!!
>
>
>
> On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
> screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
> a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
> easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
> required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
> longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
> mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
> implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
> out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
> orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
> lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
> around."
>
>
> Roger,
>
> Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance
> so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>> A few minor corrections ...
>> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a
>> spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
>> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
>> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
>> flange and the OD.
>> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>>
>> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
>> screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
>> a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
>> easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
>> required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
>> longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
>> mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
>> implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
>> out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
>> orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
>> lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
>> around.
>>
>> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
>> adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to
>> fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil
>> pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the
>> bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump
>> spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and
>> also even on its side. Patience !
>> rg
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03 AM Michael Salter
>> <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute
>> for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then,
>> using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>> it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,
>> <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
>> centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>
>> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>
>> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use
>> a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit
>> the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently
>> rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did
>> this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
>> this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a
>> couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and
>> O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away.
>> David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump
>> completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D
>> into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and
>> O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics
>> pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers
>> while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you
>> had to be there).
>>
>> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam
>> oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with
>> this process than you probably want.
>>
>> bs
>>
>> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD
>>> to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive
>>> & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans
>>> parts which was done & we did not run into any issues.
>>> We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating
>>> to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have
>>> confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully
>>> retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>>> get past it?
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>
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