[Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

Hank Leach gradea1 at charter.net
Tue Jun 20 16:07:59 MDT 2023


I fashioned this one, for lack of the factory tool. It is the best way
to remove the pump without damage. Its an interference fit. Yes, you
must first remove the non-return valve, spring ball and plunger or
else damage to the pump shaft will take place. When replacing the pump
use two long fine thread screws to guide to the correct position
When assembling the two units I leave the drain plug and screen filter
out so that the wire holding back the pump plunger can easily be
extracted after the units are mated. Seal the threads of the drain as
with just a gasket it will still leak. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 12:56:10PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 Point of interest ... there's actually a special tool for removing
the pump. I think I've only ever used it once!! 

 On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a
7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier.
Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure
that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32
screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST
be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in
the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong
if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
around."

 Roger,

 Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).

 Bob

On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
   A few minor corrections ... Yes MS is correct there is simply no
substitute for having a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine
every evening ! I have made his special tool and can confirm it does
work. However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
flange and the OD. I also use the wire/twine technique.

 Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws.
It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20
bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a
selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it
does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws
that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be
removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in
the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong
if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
around. 
 Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight
with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring
retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment
after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used
this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side.
Patience !
 rg

 On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03 AM Michael Salter  wrote:
  Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. The spare shaft is used
to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the
pump plunger retracted 
[1]https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.  
 M  
 On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to
get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

 [3]https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8 [4]

 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days
then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a
novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the
O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections
together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output
shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly,
or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably
want.

 bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
   I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled
to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run
into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that
the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  

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Links:
------
[1]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[4] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
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