[Shotimes] Pan drop

[Paul L Fisher]

>From people telling me how hard it is to get an MTX pan back on, I believe the 
ATX is easier. It took me less than a minute to take the pan from off to fully 
seated. There is one nut that is a PITA to get to. I ended up having to buy a 
swivel socket to get to it.

As for having to drop it to change the seal, I don't believe so. If you do 
have to, I would change the rod bearing while I'm in there.

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 166K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
'00 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 AWD Oxford White Clearcoat 34K Build date 
11/19/1999
- Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

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Quoting sho2go <srfdude@cox.net>:

> Is there any significant difference between dropping the oil pan on a
> 3.2 vs.
> 3.0?  I'm familiar with the tricks of the 3.0; looks like the engine is
> a
> little farther forward in the ATX.  Does this cause any other problems? 
> Also,
> does the pan have to be dropped to remove tranny/change rear main seal? 
> Damn
> 50K SHO has a rear main leak; not much but enough to be annoying and
> leave
> drops on the carpet in my garage.
> Mike
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