[Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
Kerry Kinion
kerry@kinionfurniture.com
Thu, 7 Nov 2002 18:30:17 -0800
Boy, what a can of worms I opened with the paint question! I have
decided to save my pennies and have a pro paint my car someday and I
will concentrate on things I feel more confident with, like getting and
keeping the thing running. Thanks to all and I agree that there was/is
a lot of good info in this discussion.
Kerry Kinion
'93 MTX, Bone Stock, 110k
McMinnville, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: James White [mailto:greensho@crown.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:25 PM
To: John Phillis; Shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
Actually I thought that this post was a lot of good information for
everybody.
I have done a lot of spraying of furniture, cabinets, etc. with
Sherman-Williams Super-Chemvar catalyzed urethane and am almost ready to
start to try some patch work on a SHO.
On wood you are looking for a different end result than on your car.
Runs
are bad as is orange peel and fisheyes, but not filling up all of the
grain
is OK. Like you said most of the work is the prep. The next is not to
get
cheap with the material. Not likely that the production custom cabinet
shop
uses $9/gal urethane from the home center. They go to professional
supply
houses like the industrial division of Sherman-Williams.
These folks really don't like the regular home owner buying stuff, so
they
try to make difficult and make you buy it in a 5 gallon pail and
catalyst by
the gallon. No problem since just the woodwork on just the first floor
took
15 gallons.
Also a word of caution. One MUST use a proper mask or other breathing
device. All of this stuff is really bad to breathe! A lot different
than
painting a little something with a rattle can.
This good stuff also teaches you how to really clean your spray gun
especially with clear, because it is hard to see. Wait too long and it
will
never work again!
regards,
Jim White - greensho@crown.net
Valparaiso, Indiana
'93 5 SPEED 275k few mods
'95 5 SPEED 225k lots of mods
"double clutch" it's still good for both you and your SHO
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Phillis" <jphillis68@hotmail.com>
To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
> well, like I said, experience doesn't hurt. knowledge is nice too.
just
for
> poops and giggles, what kind of PPG paint did you use when you did
your
> inner fenders and stuff? just curious... I like to see what I can do
for
> all people trying to paint. I learned to paint from experience before
I
ever
> went to a school, and it's very very frustrating. to make things
worse,
> there is no good book, other than a textbook I own that I have found
for
> painting. yeah, there are LOTS of books, most are outdated, and not
the
way
> the cookie crumbles sort of stuff. I mean no one these days needs to
know
> how to braze lead into a gap. unless you like being a glutton for
> punishment. not knocking the practice, it's just outdated. it had
drawbacks,
> as does other things, but modern shop supplies are far better. now as
far
> as primer goes, I recomend only a high solid urethane, or catalyst
primer.
> if you are into PPG, then NCP-270 or NCP-271 is the way to go. it's
the
same
> stuff just 1 means grey and 0 means red. it's very important to be
clean
adn
> grease free, otherwise, a fisheye condition will occur. when doing
finish
> sanding before painting, I recommend using nothing coarse 400 and up
is
the
> rule. 600 is ideal if you are using a thin basecoat clear coat
system.
> using sanding blocks, not over sanding, things like that. makes body
work
> good. look for the perfectly mirrored finish in your body work or
putty
> work, don't let anything look rough or uneven adn hope that paint will
fill
> in the holes. all paint does is make the holes or scratches worse.
and if
> done properly paint is like a mirror, and so any uneveness will show.
there
> is nothign worse than seeing a car with $650 a gallon paint on it, and
> seeing yoru reflection as if you were standing in front of a fun house
> mirror. it's stupid. well, ok basically all I really wanted to say
was,
if
> you are using PPG paint, Deltron series base coat-clear coat. and you
have
> runs in your base coat, then you are really really spraying on too
thick
> basecoat paints are approx. 2 mil film build. each coat you put on
shoudl
> be paper thin, I am not saying splotchy dust coats, but basically
after 5
> mins after shooting the paint, it shoudl be flat, not reflective. if
it
> looks wet, than it is too thick. if you are using acrylic enamel
delstar
> PPG, then yeah, no mater what you do it is not gonna look like factory
> paint. unless it is a solid color like black or white, or red, not a
pearl
> or metallic. if you do run yoru paint or have a rouch surface, then
some
> 2000 grit sandpaper and some elbow grease will do nicely. you can
make
any
> thick rough paint job smooth as long as you have elbow grease. also if
I
may
> recomend a clearcoat. I like matrix clear coat. matrix MS-20 clear
coat
is
> a very high performance clear. extremely fluid, yet is still urethane
and
> will gel quickly. you can match factory orange peel exactly, if not
better
> than factory with this clearcoat. but again, just my $0.02
>
> I shoudl be posting off list, but I already opened this window, I
apologize
> for flooding email.
>
> I wish I had a website with pictures of some of the hotrods, customs
and
> classics not to mention SHO's I have painted, but in the meantime, if
anyone
> is curious to see some of my work...
> http://www.geocities.com/elcamino_1972/mustang.html this is the only
> picture I have on the internet, of my own car, taken at Carlisle's All
Ford
> Nationals.
>
> anyhow just ranting a lot of nothing again.
>
> John Phillis
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "Michael S Wojton" <Mike.Wojton@owens-ill.com>
> CC: Shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
> Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:27:00 -0500
>
> I disagree. I think it takes alot of experience to paint a car and
have
it
> come
> out looking very good. Some people may have more of a talent for it
and
> can do well right out of the gate, but I think the majority of people
can't.
> Did your first paint job look as good as the last one you did? I
would
> guess no. I'm sure you've gotten much better over the years. I would
> imagine it takes time to develop the "feel" for spraying. When I
painted
> some things, I had a hard time putting enough paint on so that it
would
> "flow" and look smooth, but not enough that it would start to run,
which
> it did in spots. The more I did, the better it looked. But I'm still
glad
> it
> was all underhood stuff, ie inner fenders, core support, etc. And I
did
use
> good PPG paint, over a good primer finish.
>
> Remember, this is just my opinion. Go easy on me. : )
>
>
> Mike Wojton
> '95 MTX
> Toledo, Ohio
> shomike@tri-statesho-svt.org
>
> K&N sans silencer cone
> SHO Shop Y-pipe
>
> "Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan
>
> ------------------( Forwarded letter 1 follows )---------------------
> Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 15:50:33 -0500
> To: Shotimes@autox.team.net
> From: John.Phillis[jphillis68]@hotmail.com
> Sender: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
>
> as far as painting goes, I can do just about anything. I am currently
> building a car completely from scratch, from teh tube chassis to
blowing
the
> fiberglass body. so just ask... as far as where to start, I can list
you
a
> complete detailed order of how to, for completely professional
results, as
I
> am, a professional.
>
> I do not recommend just picking up a car piece and start practicing
> spraying. if you use good good paint, a monkey could make it look
good.
> although, some experience never hurts. :-)
>
> but basically, I don't have time to make a list right now, but I will
do,
> possibly something for the SHOTimes FAQ.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
> To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:48 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > ('93 MTX - 110K - Bone Stock - don't have service records before
about
> > 70K)
> >
> > I have torn down the following:
> >
> > Radiator (was leaking previously then seemed to plug itself up -
will
be
> > replaced)
> > Water Pump/CPS (water pump was leaking bad)
> > Thermostat/Sending Unit
> > Timing Belt (broke - that's the reason for all this)
> > Valve Covers off - ready to do valve shim check/replacement
> > Plugs/Wires will get replaced (with Ford/MC of course)
> > Cleaned engine bay and repainted underneath where degreaser took a
bunch
> > of paint off my sub-frame
> >
> > I am kind of stalled out as I wait for parts and money for parts
so I
> > can put everything back together. I thought I would ask a few
stupid
> > questions in the mean time!
> >
> > 1. Timing belt - the one that broke and I took off is a Gates
> > #1248. What were the original timing belts installed at the
factory?
> > Does this Gates belt mean it has been replaced before, or was this
> > possibly original factory issue?
> > 2. I am kind of getting ahead of myself (since I will need brakes
> > and tires next) but I want to re-paint the car eventually. All
kinds
of
> > minor nicks, scratches, etc. Some fool before me tried to touch
up
> > something on the rear bumper and it looks like crap. I have a
furniture
> > shop with a 25HP Rotary Screw compressor, air dryer, Binks spray
equip,
> > etc. Would it be possible, with these tools at my disposal, to
re-paint
> > (original green) myself and have it look like it was
professionally
> > done? O.K. - I have never painted a car before and have no clue
where
> > to start - Any step by step suggestions out there for a total
re-paint?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help again!
> >
> > Kerry Kinion
> > McMinnville, OR.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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