[Shotimes] Re: Mobil1 ATF for steering?
Steve Weinrich
stevwein@swbell.net
Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:31:45 -0600
Mobil 1 ATF is fine. You can use cheap type F to flush the system, if
desired.
Capacity is listed in your owner's manual if you still have it. It's not
very much. I bought 3 qts and had plenty left over after flushing some
through. I think 0.8 qts sounds familiar.
DO perform the purge per the Helms. Disconnect the DIS to keep the engine
from firing, then crank it to pump out the old fluid. When you refill the
system, doo the same, turning the steering wheel from stop to stop to purge
the air from the system. If, after performing this purge procedure, you
still have symptoms of air (whining from the pump, in particular) in the
system, you may have to perform the vacuum assisted purge.
Tips:
1.) Make sure you have several of the Teflon seals before you start.
They're about 75 cents each at the dealer. Also make sure that you have a
nice large punch to use for stretchng the seal.
2.) Make sure the check valve (if reinstalled) is fully seated into the
pressure inlet of the rack. I found out the hard way what happens if you
don't and you install the pressure fitting and tighten it down. It will pop
the quick-connect fitting apart and cause your PS fluid to puke onto the
floor when the system pressurizes. I am currently running with the check
valve removed with no apparent ill effects. YMMV.
3.) You can connect and disconnect those fittings from the top if you
remove the air inlet hose and a few other odds and ends. I found top access
to be easier than going in from the wheel well. A stubby 18 mm wrench is
easier to use in there than is a long wrench (once the flare nut is
loosened).
4.) Get some eye protection glasses. PS fluid dripping into your face is a
problem.
5.) Thoroughly wash the underside of the rack and through the wheelwells.
Anything you wash off won't drop onto your face while you're under there.
6.) Be patient when removing the rack through the driver's side wheel well.
I had to gently force some of the brake lines to the side in order to clear
them with the rack's input gear housing. Take your time and be gentle,
otherwise you can break these lines.
7.) If you have a VAPS equipped rack, you might need to remove the VAPS
motor in order to get the rack out. Not positive about that one.
8.) Might as well put new outer TREs on there while you're at it.
9.) If you drop the rear of the subframe, things might get easier. I
haven't tried that, but it would make sense.
Good luck,
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
To: "SHOTimes-Mailing List" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Cc: <TechSHO@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 9:06 AM
Subject: Mobil1 ATF for steering?
Would Mobil 1 ATF be a good, safe and compatiable fluid for use in the
SHO's steering system? I'm putting a new rack in tonight. Wahoo!
How many quarts should it take? The best method of draining and
flushing would be to disconnect the cooler return line and run the
motor, correct?
Does anyone actually bleed the rack per the Helms? Some have said that
it will bleed itself over time.
Hints, tips and suggestions welcome.
Thanks
Ian
93 mtx -less and less problems everday. :)
91 Nissan 300ZX TT 5 speed - last day with it :(
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