[Shotimes] Re: Mobil1 ATF for steering?

ianf@eden.rutgers.edu ianf@eden.rutgers.edu
Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:44:52 -0500 (EST)


thanks..I removed the rack on Sunday night after attempting to remove 
my inner tie rods and stripping the threads on the rack. We decided 
that dropping the subframe completely would be the easiest way to 
reinstall the new rack.

My old rack had a washer and some sort of clear teflon ring on one of 
the lines. I can probably reuse these or get teflon tape since I forgot 
to get the seals. If I have time, I'll go back to the dealer and try to 
get them..

Thanks
Ian


> Mobil 1 ATF is fine. You can use cheap type F to flush the system, if
> desired.
> 
> Capacity is listed in your owner's manual if you still have it. It's 
not
> very much.  I bought 3 qts and had plenty left over after flushing 
some
> through.  I think 0.8 qts sounds familiar.
> 
> DO perform the purge per the Helms.  Disconnect the DIS to keep the 
engine
> from firing, then crank it to pump out the old fluid.  When you 
refill the
> system, doo the same, turning the steering wheel from stop to stop to 
purge
> the air from the system.  If, after performing this purge procedure, 
you
> still have symptoms of air (whining from the pump, in particular) in 
the
> system, you may have to perform the vacuum assisted purge.
> 
> Tips:
> 
> 1.)  Make sure you have several of the Teflon seals before you start.
> They're about 75 cents each at the dealer.  Also make sure that you 
have a
> nice large punch to use for stretchng the seal.
> 
> 2.)  Make sure the check valve (if reinstalled) is fully seated into 
the
> pressure inlet of the rack.  I found out the hard way what happens if 
you
> don't and you install the pressure fitting and tighten it down.  It 
will pop
> the quick-connect fitting apart and cause your PS fluid to puke onto 
the
> floor when the system pressurizes.  I am currently running with the 
check
> valve removed with no apparent ill effects.  YMMV.
> 
> 3.)  You can connect and disconnect those fittings from the top if you
> remove the air inlet hose and a few other odds and ends.  I found top 
access
> to be easier than going in from the wheel well. A stubby 18 mm wrench 
is
> easier to use in there than is a long wrench (once the flare nut is
> loosened).
> 
> 4.)  Get some eye protection glasses.  PS fluid dripping into your 
face is a
> problem.
> 
> 5.)  Thoroughly wash the underside of the rack and through the 
wheelwells.
> Anything you wash off won't drop onto your face while you're under 
there.
> 
> 6.)  Be patient when removing the rack through the driver's side 
wheel well.
> I had to gently force some of the brake lines to the side in order to 
clear
> them with the rack's input gear housing.  Take your time and be 
gentle,
> otherwise you can break these lines.
> 
> 7.)  If you have a VAPS equipped rack, you might need to remove the 
VAPS
> motor in order to get the rack out.  Not positive about that one.
> 
> 8.)  Might as well put new outer TREs on there while you're at it.
> 
> 9.)  If you drop the rear of the subframe, things might get easier.  I
> haven't tried that, but it would make sense.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
> To: "SHOTimes-Mailing List" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <TechSHO@topica.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 9:06 AM
> Subject: Mobil1 ATF for steering?
> 
> 
> Would Mobil 1 ATF be a good, safe and compatiable fluid for use in the
> SHO's steering system? I'm putting a new rack in tonight. Wahoo!
> 
> How many quarts should it take? The best method of draining and
> flushing would be to disconnect the cooler return line and run the
> motor, correct?
> 
> Does anyone actually bleed the rack per the Helms? Some have said that
> it will bleed itself over time.
> 
> Hints, tips and suggestions welcome.
> 
> Thanks
> Ian
> 93 mtx -less and less problems everday. :)
> 91 Nissan 300ZX TT 5 speed - last day with it :(
> 
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