[Shotimes] Heater Core ?s.

[van Oss]

The thing about the AC evaporator is, it's sealed in the heater box.  To
replace it, you have to saw open the box, replace the part, then reseal the
top with RTV and screws.  Just thought I'd mention it.

Joseph


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>
To: "van Oss" <vanOss@centurytel.net>
Cc: "Heikki Laine" <heikki@heikkilaine.com>; "SHOtimes"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Heater Core ?s.



Since we are replacing thing while it is apart, I would replace the AC
condenser (that is what it is called, right? I always get the condensor and
evaporator mixed up) at the same time. Since you have to evacuate the AC
anyway, the part is cheap.

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 166K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
'00 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 AWD Oxford White Clearcoat 34K Build date
11/19/1999
- Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

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Quoting van Oss <vanOss@centurytel.net>:

> Heikki,
>
> Paul's advice about refurbishing the heater hoses was good.
>
> To replace the core, you have to at least dismount the heater box, if
> not
> remove it entirely from the car.  This is not rocket science but it
> will
> take a lot of time --- figure a weekend.  In my case, two.  You have
> to
> dismount the steering column and dash, and pull the dash rearward about
> a
> foot.  Lots of bolts and screws --- make sure you have a system for
> keeping
> them organized with information about where they came from.  The heater
> box
> is mounted to the firewall with three studs, so you have to remove
> three
> nuts on the engine side (two up, one from underneath).  If your car
> still
> has a living AC system, it will  need to be evacuated, dis/reconnected,
> and
> refilled.  Make sure you have a Helms shop manual.
>
> If all this makes you think about taking the car into some shop, be
> prepared
> for a big bill, because there are a lot of labor hours in this job.
> Something like $800.
>
> While you are doing the heater core, I would suggest you consider a
> new
> blend-door motor.  Motor failure occurs regularly among older Tauri,
> and
> like the heater core, it requires pulling the dash.
>
> Joseph van Oss
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> The time has come for me to replace the heater core in my SHO ('93 MTX).
>  It
> started blowing huge amounts of steam into my car yesterday morning so I
> was
> forced to pull over and cut the hoses off the firewall and connect them
> to
> each other.  This steam situation was all taking place with the heat
> off,
> and only grew exponentially worse when I turned the heat on (I was
> just
> curious).  I am wondering if this is the same core as the non-SHO
> Taurii,
> and also if anyone has any suggestions or comments of experience.  Stay
> away
> from these brands, don't be stupid and do this while installing it,
> etc...
> CCing replies to my email would be appreciated.  Thanks again for the
> expertise.
>
> -Heikki
>
>
> 'hA-kE
> Rutgers University
> http://www.ece.rutgers.edu
> http://www.physics.rutgers.edu
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