[Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement

[Dave Kegel]

Lot's of us have done it your way Ian (i.e., force the knuckle (which is
attached to the LCA) off the bottom of the strut, then unbolt the top of the
strut and remove it).  It's a pointless argument.

Dave Kegel
----- Original Message -----
From: <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
To: "David P" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>; "Ian Fisher"
<ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>; "'SHOtimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 05, 2003 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement


> I am not even suggesting that the Taurii that I've worked on are
> decrepit and poorly maintained either. I have TPR bushings and AL SF
> bushings on my personal 93 and I had full poly on my 94. I don't know
> why everyone is having all of these problems when I can do it so easily
> and quickly.
>
> Maybe I should demonstrate at the next convention? :)
>
> Ian
>
>
> > Remove the LCA from the knuckle, then you can push the knuckle down
> and off
> > of the strut.
> >
> > I've never found a front suspension that would freely drop down that
> far
> > without torqueing the crap out of it, but then I've never worked on a
> Gen1,
> > either, and I've also never worked on a decrepit Taurii or Sable,
> since I
> > maintain the vehicles my extended family drives fairly well. I can
> see one
> > with worn-out bushing coming off easily, but I've leveraged 200Lbs on
> a
> > six-foot long 2x4, between the LCA and the subframe, and the
> suspension
> > obviously does not want to go that far. Maybe you've got special
> Taurii with
> > extended travel suspension or something where you reside.
> >
> >
> > David P
> >
> > 95MTX
> >
> >
> >
> > ~
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
> > To: "'David P'" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>; "'SHOtimes'"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 19:48
> > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
> >
> >
> > > I have Al SF bushings and have removed the front struts on many
> SHO's
> > > countless times and have never had a problem hammering down on the
> > > spindle.
> > >
> > > As far as difficulty in reattaching the strut spring assembly, I was
> > > referring to attaching it to the car with the spindle/brakes/rotors
> all
> > > attached. It isn't light to do it that way. However, if you are
> removing
> > > it that way, because you couldn't do it separately, how are you
> managing
> > > to reinstall it separately?
> > >
> > > Ian
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David P
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 5:46 PM
> > > To: 'SHOtimes'
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
> > >
> > >
> > > For those of us that maintain all the rubber components in the front
> > > suspension, hammering down the spindle does not work, at least on
> the
> > > five different Taurii/Sables that I've maintained, the suspension
> does
> > > not want to go down that far, even when leveraging a 6 foot 2x4 on
> the
> > > torque arm. Maybe if all the bushings were worn out it could be
> done.
> > > With aluminum SFB's, TPR LCA bushings, and good condition LCA, it's
> just
> > > not gonna happen without a lot of sweat, and the point here is to
> make
> > > the job as easy as possible.
> > >
> > > As far as lifting the strut and spring back into the tower, they
> are not
> > > that heavy. I've done it with one hand on the strut, balancing the
> > > spring on it's perch, and the other on a jack many times. I by no
> means
> > > have stupendous upper body strength. You do this first, THEN attach
> the
> > > knuckle back to the strut.
> > >
> > >
> > > David P
> > >
> > > 95MTX
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ~
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
> > > To: "'SHOtimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 10:39
> > > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
> > >
> > >
> > > > And how do you lift an entire knuckle/strut assembly back onto
> the car
> > >
> > > > that weighs more than I care to remember? I have never needed to
> > > > remove the LCA bolt to remove the front struts. I simply hammer
> down
> > > > on the spindle to pop the strut out and push down on the LCA with
> a
> > > > prybar. The top 3 nuts at the top are unfastened last.
> > > >
> > > > Ian
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > > > [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Fanning
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 10:28 AM
> > > > To: SHOtimes
> > > > Subject: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Or the LCA to subframe bolt.
> > > >
> > > >     Alan
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > To get out the front springs, it does help to remove the LCA
> from
> > > > > the knuckle.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tech states to replace the LCA pinch bolt, and probably the
> strut
> > > > > pinch bolt as well. I'd only replace the LCA pinch bolt, and
> then
> > > > > only
> > > >
> > > > > if the crush nut does not seem to apply enough force on the bolt
> > > > > (and even then, I usually take a mallet to the nut and crush it
> a
> > > > > bit more to provide good torque on the bolt).
> > > > >
> > > > > David P
> > > > _______________________________________________
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