[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
don donelson
don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com
Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:07:30 -0500
Both engine and tranny can come out as one unit ... easiest way to do it ...
7 engine pulls and replacements and counting ..
dond
91 Super SHO II
All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
-3.2 ATX block
-FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
-Stage I cams
-SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
-Ported intake & runners
-Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
-Hi-flow catless Y pipe
-Hi-flow exhaust
-BBB
-SHO SHOP T.B.
-SHONUT phenolic spacers
-Quaife
-CAI
-UDP
****
-Cowl hood
-Momo 17x8 rims
-Police grill
-Custom two tone interior
-Complete sunpro gauges
oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
****
-Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
-Polyurethane at all corners
-Solid-sub frame bushings
-Frame stiffners
-Adjustable rear control arms
-Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
****
-12" rotors at all four corners
-Steel braided lines
----- Original Message -----
From: David P <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
> I'd like to add that you can pull the engine out the top after sliding the
> tranny off it. You have to drop the subframe, then lower the tranny side a
> bit to clear the body. I do NOT know if the engine and tranny can both
come
> out the top. I mention this only because dropping the motor out the bottom
> may not be an option for some of us that don't have the means to get the
car
> up high enough to clear the top of the motor. Of course, the height can be
> reduced by removing the intake during the process.
>
> I vaguely remember a post a few years back by someone that had pulled the
> MTX/3.0 combo out the top. Anyone care to comment?
>
>
> David P
>
> 95MTX
>
>
>
> ~
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>
> To: "Michael Tulloch" <teach200513760@yahoo.com>
> Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 10:25
> Subject: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> > All parts will be interchangable.
> >
> > IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
> > mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor
and
> do
> > the 3.2 motor conversion.
> >
> > This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not
swear
> its
> > totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what you
> have
> > to do to get the motor out.
> >
> > Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of
> tools is
> > a must to attempt this job.
> >
> > Hopes this helps .....
> >
> > dond
> > 91 Super SHO II
> >
> > All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
> >
> > -3.2 ATX block
> > -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> > -Stage I cams
> > -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> > -Ported intake & runners
> > -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> > -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> > -Hi-flow exhaust
> > -BBB
> > -SHO SHOP T.B.
> > -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> > -Quaife
> > -CAI
> > -UDP
> > ****
> > -Cowl hood
> > -Momo 17x8 rims
> > -Police grill
> > -Custom two tone interior
> > -Complete sunpro gauges
> > oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> > ****
> > -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> > -Polyurethane at all corners
> > -Solid-sub frame bushings
> > -Frame stiffners
> > -Adjustable rear control arms
> > -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> > ****
> > -12" rotors at all four corners
> > -Steel braided lines
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: don donelson
> > To: David Griffin
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > david
> >
> >
> > U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are attached
> to
> > one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.
> >
> > There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just
the
> > motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny and
motor.
> >
> > I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees ....
I
> use
> > a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end
of
> the
> > wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of the
> way
> > with out taking it off .
> >
> > U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan .... and
> the
> > wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc. U
> remove
> > the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to the
> engine
> > and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant
bottle
> > comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ? This is based on 5spd. I have
> never
> > done a atx.
> >
> > U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that starts
> by
> > the battery trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious.
> first
> > motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness
> reversed ..
> > ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and
> just
> > work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.
> >
> > You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack .... speed
> sensor
> > connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into ....
back
> up
> > sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.
> >
> > Rewmove the three main wire connectors on the main wire harness that is
> under
> > the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower .... they need
> to be
> > disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB. Of
> > course remove your air cleanor ..etc
> >
> > U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into the
> > charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and remember
...
> just
> > use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor .... one
> color
> > goes on boths sides of the connector.
> >
> > Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02
> sensors
> > .... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold
the
> > tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2 15 mm nuts (
> silver
> > ).
> >
> > You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21 mm.
> >
> > Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to
> connect
> > your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....
> >
> > I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i
> believe )
> > ...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually
> breaks
> > it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling jackets
> in
> > the head below.
> >
> > I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them be
> real
> > careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the
welds
> ...
> > so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal
> coolant
> > lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already
> removed.
> > Remove the T stat housing .... Also remove the metal plate that holds
the
> > wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some cars
that
> > have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no biggie.
> >
> > Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to with
> four
> > locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.
> >
> > Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and u
> can
> > push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to
undo
> the
> > HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i
> recommend a
> > 18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.
> >
> > If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that too
.
> >
> > once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit
with
> a
> > brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....
> >
> > Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel
lines
> ....
> > and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....
> >
> > Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the a/c
> lines
> > .....they are a real bitch to get off.
> >
> > They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the a/c
> > muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor to the
> > accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.
> >
> > Once these are done ..... engine should come out.
> >
> > Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i
could
> have
> > missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches
......
> and
> > check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor is
> clear
> > .... than up and away.
> >
> >
> > no/charge
> >
> > just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !
> >
> > ha
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > dond
> > 91 Super SHO II
> >
> > All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
> >
> > -3.2 ATX block
> > -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> > -Stage I cams
> > -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> > -Ported intake & runners
> > -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> > -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> > -Hi-flow exhaust
> > -BBB
> > -SHO SHOP T.B.
> > -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> > -Quaife
> > -CAI
> > -UDP
> > ****
> > -Cowl hood
> > -Momo 17x8 rims
> > -Police grill
> > -Custom two tone interior
> > -Complete sunpro gauges
> > oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> > ****
> > -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> > -Polyurethane at all corners
> > -Solid-sub frame bushings
> > -Frame stiffners
> > -Adjustable rear control arms
> > -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> > ****
> > -12" rotors at all four corners
> > -Steel braided lines
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: David Griffin
> > To: don donelson
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 7:19 PM
> > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> >
> >
> > Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
> > You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I need?
> I'm
> > going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed things
up
> a
> > bit.
> > Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should
be
> > aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
> > Thanks for your help with this matter.
> > If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(
> >
> > David Griffin
> > 89 SHO 178k
> > 90 SHO 88k
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: don donelson
> > To: David Griffin
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> >
> >
> > David
> >
> > Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to
> start.
> >
> > I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to
you.
> > With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years .....
> replaced
> > over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.
> >
> > What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these
> engines
> > to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would
> advice
> > against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and
> slowly
> > worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how to
> take
> > trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.
> >
> > I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and use
> these
> > to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the
> harness.
> > This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back
up
> > right and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.
> >
> > It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the
right
> > tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its ready to
> come
> > out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine ..
> swapping
> > over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with
your
> old
> > wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days .....
if
> u
> > are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not .... your
> > pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.
> >
> > I also remove the cooling fan, radiator .... all the things below
...
> ie
> > half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same time.
> >
> > Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific
> questions
> > you would Like addressed ... let me know ..
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> >
> >
> > dond
> > 91 Super SHO II
> > _______________________________________________
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