[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
David P
jpotter8@bellsouth.net
Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:35:27 -0500
Out the top? We know it's easy to get it out the bottom (Except for the
whole lifting the car above the motor part, for those of use without lifts).
David P
95MTX
~
----- Original Message -----
From: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>
To: "David P" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 15:07
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
> Both engine and tranny can come out as one unit ... easiest way to do it
...
>
> 7 engine pulls and replacements and counting ..
>
>
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David P <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>
> Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 2:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> > I'd like to add that you can pull the engine out the top after sliding
the
> > tranny off it. You have to drop the subframe, then lower the tranny side
a
> > bit to clear the body. I do NOT know if the engine and tranny can both
> come
> > out the top. I mention this only because dropping the motor out the
bottom
> > may not be an option for some of us that don't have the means to get the
> car
> > up high enough to clear the top of the motor. Of course, the height can
be
> > reduced by removing the intake during the process.
> >
> > I vaguely remember a post a few years back by someone that had pulled
the
> > MTX/3.0 combo out the top. Anyone care to comment?
> >
> >
> > David P
> >
> > 95MTX
> >
> >
> >
> > ~
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>
> > To: "Michael Tulloch" <teach200513760@yahoo.com>
> > Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 10:25
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
> >
> >
> > > All parts will be interchangable.
> > >
> > > IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
> > > mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor
> and
> > do
> > > the 3.2 motor conversion.
> > >
> > > This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not
> swear
> > its
> > > totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what
you
> > have
> > > to do to get the motor out.
> > >
> > > Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of
> > tools is
> > > a must to attempt this job.
> > >
> > > Hopes this helps .....
> > >
> > > dond
> > > 91 Super SHO II
> > >
> > > All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
> > >
> > > -3.2 ATX block
> > > -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> > > -Stage I cams
> > > -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> > > -Ported intake & runners
> > > -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> > > -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> > > -Hi-flow exhaust
> > > -BBB
> > > -SHO SHOP T.B.
> > > -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> > > -Quaife
> > > -CAI
> > > -UDP
> > > ****
> > > -Cowl hood
> > > -Momo 17x8 rims
> > > -Police grill
> > > -Custom two tone interior
> > > -Complete sunpro gauges
> > > oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> > > ****
> > > -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> > > -Polyurethane at all corners
> > > -Solid-sub frame bushings
> > > -Frame stiffners
> > > -Adjustable rear control arms
> > > -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> > > ****
> > > -12" rotors at all four corners
> > > -Steel braided lines
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: don donelson
> > > To: David Griffin
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:01 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > david
> > >
> > >
> > > U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are
attached
> > to
> > > one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.
> > >
> > > There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just
> the
> > > motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny and
> motor.
> > >
> > > I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees
....
> I
> > use
> > > a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end
> of
> > the
> > > wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of
the
> > way
> > > with out taking it off .
> > >
> > > U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan ....
and
> > the
> > > wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc. U
> > remove
> > > the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to
the
> > engine
> > > and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant
> bottle
> > > comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ? This is based on 5spd. I have
> > never
> > > done a atx.
> > >
> > > U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that
starts
> > by
> > > the battery trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious.
> > first
> > > motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness
> > reversed ..
> > > ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and
> > just
> > > work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.
> > >
> > > You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack ....
speed
> > sensor
> > > connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into ....
> back
> > up
> > > sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.
> > >
> > > Rewmove the three main wire connectors on the main wire harness that
is
> > under
> > > the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower .... they
need
> > to be
> > > disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB.
Of
> > > course remove your air cleanor ..etc
> > >
> > > U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into
the
> > > charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and remember
> ...
> > just
> > > use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor ....
one
> > color
> > > goes on boths sides of the connector.
> > >
> > > Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02
> > sensors
> > > .... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold
> the
> > > tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2 15 mm nuts (
> > silver
> > > ).
> > >
> > > You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21
mm.
> > >
> > > Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to
> > connect
> > > your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....
> > >
> > > I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i
> > believe )
> > > ...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually
> > breaks
> > > it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling
jackets
> > in
> > > the head below.
> > >
> > > I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them
be
> > real
> > > careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the
> welds
> > ...
> > > so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal
> > coolant
> > > lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already
> > removed.
> > > Remove the T stat housing .... Also remove the metal plate that holds
> the
> > > wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some cars
> that
> > > have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no biggie.
> > >
> > > Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to
with
> > four
> > > locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.
> > >
> > > Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and
u
> > can
> > > push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to
> undo
> > the
> > > HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i
> > recommend a
> > > 18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.
> > >
> > > If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that
too
> .
> > >
> > > once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit
> with
> > a
> > > brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....
> > >
> > > Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel
> lines
> > ....
> > > and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....
> > >
> > > Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the
a/c
> > lines
> > > .....they are a real bitch to get off.
> > >
> > > They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the
a/c
> > > muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor to
the
> > > accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.
> > >
> > > Once these are done ..... engine should come out.
> > >
> > > Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i
> could
> > have
> > > missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches
> ......
> > and
> > > check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor
is
> > clear
> > > .... than up and away.
> > >
> > >
> > > no/charge
> > >
> > > just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !
> > >
> > > ha
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > dond
> > > 91 Super SHO II
> > >
> > > All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
> > >
> > > -3.2 ATX block
> > > -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> > > -Stage I cams
> > > -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> > > -Ported intake & runners
> > > -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> > > -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> > > -Hi-flow exhaust
> > > -BBB
> > > -SHO SHOP T.B.
> > > -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> > > -Quaife
> > > -CAI
> > > -UDP
> > > ****
> > > -Cowl hood
> > > -Momo 17x8 rims
> > > -Police grill
> > > -Custom two tone interior
> > > -Complete sunpro gauges
> > > oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> > > ****
> > > -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> > > -Polyurethane at all corners
> > > -Solid-sub frame bushings
> > > -Frame stiffners
> > > -Adjustable rear control arms
> > > -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> > > ****
> > > -12" rotors at all four corners
> > > -Steel braided lines
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: David Griffin
> > > To: don donelson
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 7:19 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> > >
> > >
> > > Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
> > > You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I
need?
> > I'm
> > > going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed
things
> up
> > a
> > > bit.
> > > Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should
> be
> > > aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
> > > Thanks for your help with this matter.
> > > If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(
> > >
> > > David Griffin
> > > 89 SHO 178k
> > > 90 SHO 88k
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: don donelson
> > > To: David Griffin
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
> > >
> > >
> > > David
> > >
> > > Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to
> > start.
> > >
> > > I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to
> you.
> > > With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years .....
> > replaced
> > > over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.
> > >
> > > What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these
> > engines
> > > to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would
> > advice
> > > against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and
> > slowly
> > > worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how
to
> > take
> > > trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.
> > >
> > > I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and
use
> > these
> > > to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the
> > harness.
> > > This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back
> up
> > > right and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.
> > >
> > > It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the
> right
> > > tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its ready
to
> > come
> > > out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine ..
> > swapping
> > > over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with
> your
> > old
> > > wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days
.....
> if
> > u
> > > are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not ....
your
> > > pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.
> > >
> > > I also remove the cooling fan, radiator .... all the things below
> ...
> > ie
> > > half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same
time.
> > >
> > > Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific
> > questions
> > > you would Like addressed ... let me know ..
> > >
> > > Hope this helps.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > dond
> > > 91 Super SHO II
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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