[Shotimes] my sho wont start
troy gulbrandson
mohlman21@hotmail.com
Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:38:19 -0500
my sho wont start? i turn the key and it doesnt sound like the fuel pump is
kicking in but it turns over and tryes to start. is there a fuse or
something that i might have blown?? it is a 93 automatic any help will be
greaty liked.
>From: shotimes-request@autox.team.net
>Reply-To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2170 - 4 msgs
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 21:37:01 -0600
>
>Send Shotimes mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
>
>Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2168 - 13 msgs (troy gulbrandson)
> 2. Northwest (seattle) SHO Mechanics...New to the SHO club
>(combustion.chamber@attbi.com)
> 3. Re: New Autometer oil pressure gauge f/s w/ extra's (George Fourchy)
> 4. Re: New Autometer oil pressure gauge f/s w/ extra's (Midwest SHO
>Specialists)
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 1
>From: "troy gulbrandson" <mohlman21@hotmail.com>
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 21:10:39 -0500
>Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2168 - 13 msgs
>
>my sho wont start? i turn the key and it doesnt sound like the fuel pump is
>kicking in but it turns over and tryes to start. is there a fuse or
>something that i might have blown?? any help will be greaty liked.
>
>
> >From: shotimes-request@autox.team.net
> >Reply-To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> >To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2168 - 13 msgs
> >Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 14:56:02 -0600
> >
> >Send Shotimes mailing list submissions to
> > shotimes@autox.team.net
> >
> >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > shotimes-request@autox.team.net
> >
> >You can reach the person managing the list at
> > shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >
> >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >than "Re: Contents of Shotimes digest..."
> >
> >
> >Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. RE: Another blasted stereo question (Bill Murray)
> > 2. RE: subwoofer replacement (Bill Murray)
> > 3. Re: auto lamps (Al Fitz)
> > 4. Re: California Convention (2004) Itinerary Addendum 1 (George
> >Fourchy)
> > 5. auto lamps (Peter Maggiacomo)
> > 6. RE: auto lamps (James F. Ryan III)
> > 7. Slightly OT-Wheel Bearings (sho2go)
> > 8. RE: Another blasted stereo question (Bill Murray)
> > 9. RE: auto lamps (James F. Ryan III)
> > 10. RE: auto lamps (Jim and Debbie Leyden)
> > 11. Re: Another blasted stereo question (van Oss)
> > 12. Some more A/C problems (Harmon)
> > 13. RE: auto lamps (Ron Childs)
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 1
> >From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
> >To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:55:45 -0400
> >
> >JL Audio makes some relatively inexpensive coaxial or component
> >speakers, and also MB Quart, but they can be a little "bright". Both of
> >these companies also make more expensive ones too if you really want
> >some great sound quality. You can usually find a set of them for a good
> >price on eBay, but you won't get the Manufacturers warranty since the
> >eBay person isn't a licensed dealer. A/D/S also makes some good
> >speakers, but they can be a little pricey. None of these will give you
> >the "ghetto boom" since they are just for ~80 hz and above. Also make
> >sure that you have the speakers powered by the Rockford A4 only and not
> >also off of the head unit. By-amping like this is not recommended and
> >will most likely damage your speakers.
> >
> >Bill Murray
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Prochilo
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 11:06 AM
> >To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >
> >This question concerns my son's 95 MTX. The original owner replaced the
> >factory stereo with some fairly nice aftermarket equipment that came
> >with
> >the car. Here's the list.
> >
> >o Pioneer DEH- P8000R head unit (45W/channel)
> >o MTX electronic crossover
> >o Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 A4 amp
> >o Rockford Fosgate Punch 225 amp for subs
> >o Eagle Power Cap 20V
> >o Wiring in place for trunk mounted CD changer.
> >
> >I can say it looks damn impressive. Sound OTOH is an issue I'm trying
> >to
> >debug. From what I can tell, the original factory speakers are still
> >with
> >the car. My main fear is that the equipment is way overmatching the
> >speakers. Can someone comment on this? If so, what recommendations
> >would
> >you make to replace the factory speakers to match up with the power
> >output.
> >
> >In case you are wondering, there is no intent here to blast out the
> >windows
> >of the adjacent car. Just looking for crisp, clear sound, not that
> >urban
> >thunder boom crap.
> >
> >TIA,
> >Carl P.
> >_______________________________________________
> >Shotimes mailing list
> >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
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> >
> >---
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> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 2
> >From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
> >To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:13:38 -0400
> >
> >There are 2 reasons why it sounds better with better amp running it.
> >The JBL amp is 6ohms, and if you run the sub at 4 ohms, the JBL amp is
> >most likely sending it a somewhat distorted signal. The other reason is
> >probably that the JBL box is either too big or too small for the JL sub.
> >If I was looking to keep the same mounting style, I would either find an
> >8" sub that worked with the volume of the JBL sub box, or get something
> >like the JL IB8, with is a free air sub, and just mount it to the top
> >half of the JBL box, and leave the bottom half off. When I bought my
> >first SHO, it had an MTX 8" sub in the JBL sub box, running off a 120w
> >Sony amp. It wasn't a window shacker, but it was ok, at low to moderate
> >listening levels.
> >
> >Bill Murray
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin & Cheryl Airth
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:40 PM
> >To: Jim and Debbie Leyden; shotimes@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
> >
> >Jim:
> > He is wrong. The 6W0 is different from the rest of the JL line. It is
> >single voice coil only and 4 or 8 ohms depending on how you wire it up.
> >One
> >part number only. Here is the factory page for this unit. I don't know
> >what
> >the retail price is.
> >http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/6w0.html
> >
> > One of mine runs just fine using the stock JBL amp but I think it
> >sounds
> >better with higher quality electronics pushing it. It really is too
> >small to
> >be a proper subwoofer but I like how the box fits the car.
> >.
> >.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > My son in law owns a stereo shop in Ohio. He says (can't back it
> >myself
> > > because I haven't heard one personally) that the JL Audio speakers
> >required
> > > more to drive them than the JBL amp will put out. Also, 6WO is only
> >part
> >of
> > > the number. you have to specify the Ohms since JL makes them in
> >4,6,8,and
> > > 12 Ohms (I think it was a 6WO-6) or something like that)
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > Joe:
> > > I found a perfect drop in high quality replacement. JL Audio makes
> >6.5"
> > > subwoofer. 6W0. They are a little hard to find. I got two on E-bay for
> > > $70/pair. Used one in a stock application and sounded great. I used
> >the
> > > other speaker in my aftermarket setup. I added the factory box and did
> >not
> > > like the factory driver. Comparing the stock JBL to the JL unit shows
> >the
> > > quality difference!
> > > .
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Sounds like a great choice. I tried 4-ohm and 8-ohm replacements
> >when
> >my
> > > > original sub went bye-bye. Not because I expected them to work,
> >just to
> > > see
> > > > what would happen.
> > > >
> > > > Result (as most of you expect): sounded horrible.
> > > >
> > > > I ended up getting an OEM replacement (thanks Al).
> > > >
> > > > Steve "Still have to pop zits once in a while" Tatro
> > > > Red/Black '93 with 167k miles
> > > > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > > PIONEER C16EU20-52D 6-1/2" POLY WOOFER
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > it has the correct resistance (6 Ohms)
> > > > > and can be bought from:
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&&DID=7&CATID=4
> >9&Ob
> > > > > jectGroup_ID=488
> > > > >
> > > > > pardon me.... I have to go pop my zits
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I posted earlier today about an inoperative subwoofer.
> > > > >
> > > > > The winners are Jim Leyden and Dave Kegel for suggesting it might
> >be
> >the
> > > > > speaker itself. Volt meter says there is current coming to it
> >(fraction
> > > > of
> > > > > a volt, does that seem right?) and resistance across the terminals
> >of
> > > the
> > > > > speaker is infinite.
> > > > >
> > > > > So I'm off to the store. Someone recently recommended a
> >particular
> > > brand
> > > > > and model number as a good replacement for the stock subwoofer ---
> >could
> > > > > someone repost that info? Please? Thanks much.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, where's a good source for the rubber grommets used where the
> > > > mounting
> > > > > studs come up through holes in the parcel shelf?
> > > > >
> > > > > Joseph van Oss
> > > > >
> > > > > p.s. No valve springs involved in this job, sorry.
> >_______________________________________________
> >Shotimes mailing list
> >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.486 / Virus Database: 284 - Release Date: 5/29/2003
> >
> >
> >---
> >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.486 / Virus Database: 284 - Release Date: 5/29/2003
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 3
> >From: "Al Fitz" <alfitz@alfitz.com>
> >To: "_SHOTIMES" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:13:37 -0500
> >
> >I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
> >headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at
>about
> >25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
> >
> >Al Fitz SHO Specials
> >http://www.alfitz.com
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> >To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:05 PM
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >
> > > On the Gen 1, it's the sensor on the passenger side.
> > >
> > > Ron Porter
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > > On Behalf Of -Newmy-
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:12 PM
> > > To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi everybody, quick question....
> > > In order to get my autolamps to come on in bright daylight on my '90,
> > > shouldnt I just be able to cover up that button sensor on the dash in
> >front
> > > of the driver? Im trying this, but to no avail...
> > > Is there another switch that has to be activated also?
> > > thanks
> > > Curt
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 4
> >From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
> >To: "shotimes@autox.team.net" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 11:29:06 -0700
> >Reply-To: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: California Convention (2004) Itinerary Addendum
>1
> >
> >On Sun, 01 Jun 2003 09:29:29 -0700, Alan Fanning wrote:
> >
> > > Down the
> > >street from old town is the Towe museum, the future retirement home for
> >the
> > >Lowrider (George - how could you forget to mention it?). This used to
>be
> >a
> > >Ford exclusive museum, but IIRC the owner got himself in financial
> >quicksand
> > >and had to sell off. Now there are other makes as well. In Woodland
>there
> >is
> > >(as of a few years back) an old truck museum that is quite interesting.
> >Not
> > >concourse type restorations, but a remarkable variety of really old
> >working
> > >trucks. Just don't go on a 100 degree day, as it isn't air conditioned.
> > >
> > >For a high-end auto museum, there's the Blackhawk Museum, which I've
> > >regrettably never been to but I've heard good things about it. It's
>south
> >of
> > >Vacaville - in Walnut Creek?
> >
> >Duh!!! How could I forget the Towe Museum.....Lowrider will be a static
> >display at
> >the hotel during the convention, with the other two cars actually being
> >driven, and
> >when it is over, I'll be taking it over there to them for long-term loan.
> >Oldtown
> >Sacramento is really nice....the last time I was there it was like a town
> >from the
> >1800s...wooden sidewalks and everything.
> >
> >Blackhawk is in Danville, about halfway between Concord and Castro
>Valley,
> >on I-680.
> > For those not familiar with the Bay Area, it's on the next freeway to
>the
> >east from
> >880, which connects Oakland and San Jose, behind the first small range of
> >mountains
> >next to the east shore of the bay. I've been there twice....the BaySHO
> >group goes
> >there often, whenever a new influx of members wants to see the cars.
> >
> >Thanks for the suggestions. I'll catalogue them and see how many are
> >easily doable.
> >
> >George
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 5
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 11:37:27 -0700 (PDT)
> >From: Peter Maggiacomo <gtsrider@yahoo.com>
> >To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> >Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >"A beanbag ashtray is the special tool that SVO
> >recommends..."
> >Also adds thrill and excitement to an accident!
> >
> >
> >__________________________________
> >Do you Yahoo!?
> >Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> >http://calendar.yahoo.com
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 6
> >Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 14:44:01 -0400
> >From: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >To: "'Ron Childs'" <rbchilds@pacbell.net>, "'-Newmy-'"
> > <thenewmster@shaw.ca>, shotimes@autox.team.net
> >
> > > On a '90, according to Helm, the sensor is on the RH side. The one on
> >the
> > > left would be the sunload sensor for the HVAC.
> >
> >
> >Which is the RH side and which is the LH side? :^)
> >
> >Ron Porter was right. The light sensor is on the passenger side. The
> >sunload sensor is the 'button' on the driver side.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jim Ryan
> >(Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
> >Wayne, NJ
> >'91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
> >spoiler
> >
> >
> >255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO
>Shop
> >HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
> >pulleys,
> >SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
> >engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS
>'96
> >SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
> >struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
> >STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
> >grille
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 7
> >From: "sho2go" <srfdude@cox.net>
> >To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:17:58 -0700
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Slightly OT-Wheel Bearings
> >
> >(For a Dodge Caravan) rear drums, the OEM bearings are a little sorry
> >looking
> >so I bought some new ones, which come with races. The old races are
> >pressed
> >in the drums; today is Sunday of course. Will I need to have them
>pressed
> >out/in, or can I get a brass drift and punch the old ones out, freeze the
> >new
> >ones, and slip them in? I'm tempted to put the new bearings in the old
> >races,
> >but I hate to do anything half-a**ed. Anyone with any experience with
>this
> >type of bearing setup?
> >Mike
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 8
> >From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
> >To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:35:09 -0400
> >
> >Yes, if you have the JBL system, I'm pretty sure the speakers are 6 ohm
> >and the Rockford is putting out 4 ohm. My comment about the "ghetto
> >boom" is that you said you didn't want anything obnoxiously loud, but
> >cabin speakers aren't going to really provide that as much as the subs
> >that you already have would. I posted a few weeks ago about my theory
> >on replacing different parts of the JBL system, and what to replace at
> >the same times as others. One of them is replacing amps and speakers at
> >the same time. I can send you privately the post if I still have it if
> >you're interested.
> >
> >Bill Murray
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Carl Prochilo [mailto:carl@prochilo.myserver.org]
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 3:27 PM
> >To: Bill Murray; SHOTimes
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >
> >Can you comment a little more in this? What impedance are the factory
> >speakers (6 ohms?) and what does the Rockford expect (4 ohms)? I'm
> >trying
> >to figure out why the speakers sound muffled (major problem). I'm still
> >digging through the wiring to figure out how this is all connected up.
> >I
> >
> >About the frequency response, that's not really a problem at all. The
> >low
> >frequency stuff will be handled by sub(s) powered by the 225.
> >
> >Carl P.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
> >To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 1:55 PM
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >
> >
> > > JL Audio makes some relatively inexpensive coaxial or component
> > > speakers, and also MB Quart, but they can be a little "bright". Both
> >of
> > > these companies also make more expensive ones too if you really want
> > > some great sound quality. You can usually find a set of them for a
> >good
> > > price on eBay, but you won't get the Manufacturers warranty since the
> > > eBay person isn't a licensed dealer. A/D/S also makes some good
> > > speakers, but they can be a little pricey. None of these will give
> >you
> > > the "ghetto boom" since they are just for ~80 hz and above. Also make
> > > sure that you have the speakers powered by the Rockford A4 only and
> >not
> > > also off of the head unit. By-amping like this is not recommended and
> > > will most likely damage your speakers.
> > >
> > > Bill Murray
> > >
> >
> >
> >---
> >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.486 / Virus Database: 284 - Release Date: 5/29/2003
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 9
> >Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 15:45:05 -0400
> >From: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >To: "'Al Fitz'" <alfitz@alfitz.com>, "'_SHOTIMES'"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >
> > > I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
> > > headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at
> > > about 25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
> >
> >
> >I could swear I read somewhere that it's actually a 50% duty cycle. It's
> >not in the EVTM or the Wiring Diagrams, maybe I read it in the Helm's.
> >
> >Anyway, many years ago I considered installing the DRL in my '91, but I
> >never did. I've always wondered what if any effect it has on headlamp
> >life.
> >
> >FWIW, I had one headlamp go out in 12 years of ownership; I replaced the
> >other one at the same time. I had 1 front marker lamp go out and I've
> >never
> >had to replace a turn signal bulb (f&r) or a brake light bulb. I've
>never
> >had to replace any of the interior lamps either. Luck O' the Irish I
> >guess.
> >
> >
> >Jim Ryan
> >(Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
> >Wayne, NJ
> >'91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
> >spoiler
> >
> >255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO
>Shop
> >HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
> >pulleys,
> >SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
> >engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS
>'96
> >SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
> >struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
> >STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
> >grille
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 10
> >From: "Jim and Debbie Leyden" <jndleyden@mindspring.com>
> >To: "Shotimes@Autox.Team.Net" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:28:33 -0400
> >
> >The DRL module actually powers the high beams and when you shut the car
>off
> >it briefly flashes the high beams on. it is also tied into the parking
> >brake so that the lights go out when the parking brake is set.
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Al Fitz
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:14 PM
> >To: _SHOTIMES
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >
> >I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
> >headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at
>about
> >25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
> >
> >Al Fitz SHO Specials
> >http://www.alfitz.com
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> >To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:05 PM
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >
> > > On the Gen 1, it's the sensor on the passenger side.
> > >
> > > Ron Porter
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > > On Behalf Of -Newmy-
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:12 PM
> > > To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi everybody, quick question....
> > > In order to get my autolamps to come on in bright daylight on my '90,
> > > shouldnt I just be able to cover up that button sensor on the dash in
> >front
> > > of the driver? Im trying this, but to no avail...
> > > Is there another switch that has to be activated also?
> > > thanks
> > > Curt
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >_______________________________________________
> >Shotimes mailing list
> >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 11
> >Reply-To: "van Oss" <vanOss@centurytel.net>
> >From: "van Oss" <vanOss@centurytel.net>
> >To: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>, "SHOTimes"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:37:39 -0500
> >
> >What does it mean to say that an amplifier is "putting out" 4 ohms? How
> >does an amp "put out" resistence?
> >
> >Joseph van Oss
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >Yes, if you have the JBL system, I'm pretty sure the speakers are 6 ohm
>and
> >the Rockford is putting out 4 ohm...
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 12
> >From: "Harmon" <sharmon@knology.net>
> >To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:35:47 -0400
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Some more A/C problems
> >
> >Actually, it's the same problem I've had for the last couple years.
> >
> >Sorry for it being so long but just want to give you a history of it and
> >believe me this is actually quite short for the trouble I've had with
>this.
> >
> >The car has actually done this since I've owned it. The number 17 fuse
> >position keeps blowing fuses. The number 17 fuse pos. is the A/C
> >clutch/compressor. Last year it started this and if you hit it with a
> >broomstick it would engage, classic symtom of a bad gap on the A/C
>clutch.
> >It
> >would work for a little while then blow the fuse again. I checked the
>gap
> >and
> >it was too large so I removed a shim and somehow ended up with the same
> >gap.
> >Only now it would'nt even come on for a second it would just immediately
> >blow
> >the fuse. Well I was pissed and struggled thru last summer (Hot in Bama
>8+
> >months a year). Well I took it all apart yesterday and used a shim from
> >the
> >old 89 a/c compressor I had. It is now right on the .036" edge. It's
> >better
> >now as it will run a little while before blowing. Anyone have any
>ideas.
> >It
> >makes me think it's got a short somewhere but why would fooling with the
> >gap
> >have any affect as it has every time I've bothered it.
> >
> >If it's a short I'm in trouble as my weak point on autos is electrical
> >stuff.
> >If's if is electrical I don't think is related to anything but the
>actually
> >a/c clutch/compressor as the climate control is never affected? There
> >should
> >be much wiring in between these two, right? Or am I totally in for a
>very
> >hard time chasing a shit load of wires?
> >
> >Could the gap be to large and cause it to overload the clutch coil trying
> >to
> >draw in the clutch? This may be searching a bit I know but like I said
>I'm
> >a
> >dumbass when it comes to wiring..
> >
> >Just to eliminate the A/C clutch/compressor could i just leave the # 17
> >empty
> >and run a straight switch to operate the AC or will I burn something up?
> >
> >
> >Thanks for any help,
> >
> >BTW its a 94
> >
> >Gerald
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >Message: 13
> >Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
> >From: Ron Childs <rbchilds@pacbell.net>
> >Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >To: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>, shotimes@autox.team.net
> >
> >I think it is a different section in Helm that describes front, back,
> >left, right, up and down. :-) The lighting section just says "RH."
> >
> > .
> >-Ron
> > .
> >
> >--- "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net> wrote:
> > > > On a '90, according to Helm, the sensor is on the RH side. The one
>on
> > > the
> > > > left would be the sunload sensor for the HVAC.
> > >
> > >
> > > Which is the RH side and which is the LH side? :^)
> > >
> > > Ron Porter was right. The light sensor is on the passenger side. The
> > > sunload sensor is the 'button' on the driver side.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim Ryan
> > > (Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
> > > Wayne, NJ
> > > '91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
> > > spoiler
> > >
> > >
> > > 255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO
> > > Shop
> > > HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
> > > pulleys,
> > > SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel,
>reinforced
> > > engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs,
>FPS
> > > '96
> > > SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni
> > > adj
> > > struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel
>f&r
> > > STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights,
>police
> > > grille
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >
> >-- __--__--
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Shotimes mailing list
> >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >
> >End of Shotimes Digest
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>--__--__--
>
>Message: 2
>From: combustion.chamber@attbi.com
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 03:08:58 +0000
>Subject: [Shotimes] Northwest (seattle) SHO Mechanics...New to the SHO club
>
>Hi guys,
> I am a new member of the SHO family, and while VERY excited,
>am alittle scared. I know
>they are tough engines and all of that, but I have NEVER owned a Ford
>product. All I have ever
>driven were Japanese cars to this date...And yes the SHO is alittle
>Japanese, but that isn't the
>point. While I am mechanically inclined...for the most part...I am
>wondering if it might just be
>smarter for me to have my major maintenance done on the car. That being
>the infamous 60K
>service (t-belt, hoses, lash?) and going from there. Car is a '92 MTX with
>110K and is squeak and
>rattle free, and driven by the owners wife.
>
>That brings me to this question...does anyone know of a decent and
>affordable SHO mechanic in
>the Pacific Northwest (Seattle) where I am? There is a NW club, which I am
>joining but I have to
>wait for approval from the list manager (not your problem I know), and I am
>not sure when that will
>happen. I'd like to start out on the right foot with this thing as I pick
>it up later this week and put
>it in the shop for a going over, or do it myself. I've always wanted one,
>and now here is my
>chance...
>
>Any advice is greatly appreciated!
>
>thanks in advance,
>Syd
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 3
>From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
>To: "shotimes@autox.team.net" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 20:29:08 -0700
>Reply-To: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] New Autometer oil pressure gauge f/s w/ extra's
>
>On Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:00:20 -0400, Mark Nunnally wrote:
>
> > $50 it's yours with the extra's.
>
>
>
>Sold to Krazy George if it isn't already gone.
>
>George
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 4
>From: "Midwest SHO Specialists" <SHOtimes@midwestsho.com>
>To: "Mark Nunnally" <manunnal@netheaven.com>, "shotimes"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] New Autometer oil pressure gauge f/s w/ extra's
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:18:56 -0500
>
>Mark,
>
>If nobody's nabbed it, I have a customer that could use the T assembly, and
>I can just toss the gauge in my car.
>
>Mike Kopstain
>Midwest SHO Specialists
>827 North Chestnut Avenue
>Arlington Heights, IL 60004
>www.MidwestSHO.com
>Sales@midwestsho.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Nunnally" <manunnal@netheaven.com>
>To: "shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 9:00 PM
>Subject: [Shotimes] New Autometer oil pressure gauge f/s w/ extra's
>
>
> > Found a brand new Autometer oil pressure gauge the other day, digging
> > through some stuff. It's a 2 1/16 black face, black bezel, white text
>and
> > red needle. 0-100 psi. Summit sells these for $55.39. Mine has the
>sender
> > already on a "T" with a new factory OEM sender switch as well. All set
>and
> > ready to install, has the misc mounting stuff and bulb covers,
>directions,
> > box, etc. $50 it's yours with the extra's.
> >
> > mark
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
>End of Shotimes Digest
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