[Shotimes] y pipe removal/installation

[Mark Nunnally]

Yep.  Try to soak it in PB blaster or similar as best you can.  If you can
get it moving at all, keep going at it back and forth.  Try to heat up the
manifold around the stud.  The later year SHO's use studs with hex shoulders
at the manifold end, so if you break one you have a 2nd shot at it using the
hex shoulder.  The early cars do not, so get some big vice grips on it as
tight as you can.  The problem is there ain't much room to work ;)

If it breaks don't waste your time with an EZ Out or so, trust me, it ain't
coming out.  Just have to drill it out and re-tap.  Takes a good 1 hr to do
that (per stud) to drill out, remove, re-tap, and thread in a new one.  A
real pain (if you are doing this during a clutch job, it's easier to work
with the subframe and axles out of the way).

mark

----- Original Message -----
From: <BJamesjr@aol.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] y pipe removal/installation


> If there is some stud sticking out feel free to try to unscrew it without
resorting to the drill.  You can put nuts on it, you can use vicegrip
pliers, you can even weld onto it if there is just a small amount sticking
out (put a washer on the stub, weld the stub to the washer, put a nut on top
of this and weld the nut to the washer, then try backing it out with a
wrench.)
>
> Whichever method you use, if you are actually trying to unscrew the stud
you should use plenty of oil on it, and if you have to you can go back and
forth a little to try and wear down the resistance.  If it can be loosened
to turn even a small amount you can probably eventually get it out.  If it
doesn't turn at all then it will likely keep breaking.
>
> > if I put a nut on the remainder of the stud, then reverse tapped
> > it and reverse threaded another nut under it, couldn't I just try and
> > continue ratcheting the stud out, or is the theory that "it
> > broke once,
> > it'll break again" likely to ring true.
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