[Shotimes] Radiator Hints for Gen 2 ATX

[Haman, Philip E]

George,
	You forgot to mention the scotch tape needed to hold the upper
mounting clips in place so they don't move around while getting the bolts
started.:)
Phil

-----Original Message-----
From: George Fourchy [mailto:krazgeo@jps.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 6:24 PM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shotimes] Radiator Hints for Gen 2 ATX


I swapped a radiator in a Gen 2 ATX today.  There are a lot more steps than
there
are for an MTX car.  I found two shortcuts that I bet aren't mentioned in
any
manuals, including Helms.  I just thought I'd toss them out for your
information, if
anyone is about to change their ATX radiators.   (The basic difficulties
throughout
the procedure occur because the engine is closer to the front of the car
than in an
MTX.)

With every ATX car, the hydraulic lines going into the cooling tank are a
pain in
the neck.  This car is no different.  The top line isn't too hard to deal
with,
after the bracket that holds parts of the wiring harness that crosses the
top of the
radiator support is moved.  That top line has a rubber section just adjacent
to the
connector, which makes it very easy to line up, and easy to remove also,
since there
is no constant tension put on the connector by a slightly cocked metal line.
The
bottom connector, by far the harder to reach, is all metal, and was very
hard to
remove, until I found the secret.  Before trying to remove the bottom
connector,
remove the two small screws that hold the lines to the bottom of the
radiator, where
they cross the front of the car from driver's side to pax side.  This will
allow you
to move the lines as necessary to take tension off the lower connector, and
remove
it with your hand.  I was able to reinstall it this way, and it took 1
minute or
less to completely fasten it, where it took about 5 minutes of working the
hex nut
one face at a time to remove it, while there was tension on the connector.

You have to remove the alternator to get room for the right side tank to get
past
it.  But you don't have to remove it from the car.  If you unplug the top
plug, then
take the 4 bolts out, you can just set it back towards the waterpump (you've
removed
the battery tray, so it will sit on the inner fender), where it will sit,
and then
you can continue with the radiator.  That saves a lot of hassle removing the
main
high-amp output wire with its connector underneath the rubber cover.  You do
have to
remove the front upper idler pulley to get to the rearward alternator bolt.
I sure
wish MTX alternators were as easy to remove as ATXs.....that is one definite
improvement.

A couple of comments regarding the radiator hoses.  I used the aftermarket
indicated
replacement hose for the upper hose, and the NAPA 7311 hose for the lower
hose.  
Someone mentioned recently that the 7311 wasn't quite shaped the same, and
rubbed on
something which might hurt it.  I could find nothing sharp that was in the
vicinity
of the hose, although it did rub on another smaller hose....I believe it was
one of
the ATX cooling lines.  There wasn't enough tension on the hose from the
line to
cause it any damage.  The upper hose needed to be cut off by about 2 inches
at the
radiator end.  I found that the inner rear corner of the ABS computer
mounting
bracket tended to want to press against the hose in one particular place,
which
might make a hole over time.  So I slit the piece of hose I cut off, and
just
slipped it over the installed hose next to the computer, and that took care
of the
potential damage.

Hope these hints work for you.

Later....

George and the Lowrider.....still on its original lower hose, at 267.5 K
miles.....I
have a new one....just lazy!
_______________________________________________
Shotimes mailing list
Shotimes@autox.team.net
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes