[Shotimes] RE: Stalling Problem
David Duffield
OneNuke89@cox.net
Sat, 22 Mar 2003 14:58:43 -0800
Update. I checked in the trusty old Chiltons and tried to do some
troubleshooting. One of the things they talk about as far as idling is the
Idle Air Bypass Valve. A simple check is to use an Ohmeter and check
resistance across the connectors. It says it should be between 7-13, but
when I do it I get about 1. Does this seem like it could be my problem??
They run about $60 at AZ online. As for the part number, it says its Wells
SV1022. Anyway, hope to get some answers soon. Gotta go underway for the
next week and probably won't be able to fix it until next weekend. Thanks
again in advance.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
shotimes-request@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 7:56 AM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #1857 - 8 msgs
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Today's Topics:
1. (no subject) (balford4@bellsouth.net)
2. LPM Help - Ted B. (T. A. Breaux)
3. Re: Yellow Headlights (Jeff Costantino)
4. Re: Stalling Problem (Jeff Costantino)
5. Re: Help with LPM (shospeed@bigplanet.com)
6. Re: RE: [Shotimes] Help with LPM (shospeed@bigplanet.com)
7. Re: Yellow Headlights (Herman Anker)
8. Re: Struts & Springs (Leigh Smith)
--__--__--
Message: 1
From: <balford4@bellsouth.net>
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 8:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Shotimes] (no subject)
confirm 197286
--__--__--
Message: 2
From: "T. A. Breaux" <tabreaux@bellsouth.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 08:59:47 -0600
Subject: [Shotimes] LPM Help - Ted B.
The LPM is a tool that is capable of effectively enhancing the performance
characteristics of a SHO. Unlike most other performance hardware, the LPM
provides the ability to adjust parameters to suit the needs of any
indivudual
car.
The potential to which an LPM can be used to influence the performance
characteristics of any SHO depends on several factors, one being the
condition
and integrity of electronic and mechanical equipment on the host car (which
is
not always easy to determine). Likewise, the performance potential is
governed by the ultimate ability of the hardware (including mods) to support
this. What this equates to in real numbers varies (widely) from vehicle to
vehicle.
If one is serious about performance, dyno tuning is very helpful.
2000-7500rpm runs with A/F logging is particularly useful. Since even bone
stock SHOs can display power deviations upward of 20hp, comparing the
results
of any individual car with that of another can be confusing/misleading. As
far as the reason for the deviations, this is due to Ford's sloppy QA/QC and
some 8 years and many miles under the hoods of even the newest SHOs.
Some say the LPM isn't useful on mildly prepared cars. If a car doesn't
respond well to certain changes, that isn't necessarily due to shortcomings
in
the performance part or device. Fairly recently, I've assisted in dyno
tuning
a typical SHO with 80mm MAF, UDP's, Y-pipe, Sho Shop Cat Back and LPM that
peaks right at 212hp and 196ft/lbs at the wheels. We were able to gain
quite
a bit of torque down low and improve power across the board via the LPM. It
may be of interest to know that despite the fact that I was able to tune
this
car effectively, I have never even seen the car in question (all done
remotely).
Do all cars respond this way? Some do, some don't. Of course, with an LPM,
you have 30-days to evaluate it, risk free. Try to do that with other
performance hardware.
Regarding Bruce and Chad.....
My programming computer is used solely for that purpose. No viruses there
(although it is checked regularly).
Bruce's unit is an older one that he purchased used. Unfortunately, it may
have been damaged at some point. We are not certain at the present.
Chad's unit is a new one. We are trying to determine if the unit is at
fault,
or if he has a weak ECM. If the unit is at fault (a rare occurrence), he
gets
a replacement.
tabreaux
--__--__--
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:12:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Yellow Headlights
From: Jeff Costantino <jeff@hookt-up.com>
To: _SHOTIMES II <shotimes@autox.team.net>
The missing detail here is that you need to put a few (4-5) coats of a UV
resistant polyurethane clear coat over the lights. This will make a huge
difference by keeping them from yellowing as quickly and givin them a very
glossy look which helps with light output. I've done the same thing to my
headlights and it really helps. Not 100% but for cheap (under $20) it helps
a lot. I still have many tiny cracks within the polycarbonate lens itself
that reflect light around instead of passing it through.
Jeff - 95 atx
>
>> I have the perfect cure for yellowing lights.
>>
>> Materials needed are:
>>
>> 1) New ScotchBrite pad
>> 2) Maguiar's Mirror Glaze #18
>> 3) Maguiar's Mirror Glaze #17
>>
>> STEP 1: Using a damp ScotchBrite pad, soak it with #17. Scrub the lens in
>> one direction only, don't use a swirl pattern. Scrub it until your arm
>> hurts.
>>
>> STEP 2: Using a damp soft terry cloth towel, soak it with #17 and repeat
the
>> above scrubbing.
>>
>> STEP 3: Using a clean dry terry cloth towel, soak it in #18 and repeat
above
>> scrubbing.
>>
>> This procedure will remove the yellow almost completely and renew the
look
>> of your lights. Do one light at a time to see the remarkable difference
it
>> makes.
>>
>> Before you ask, I don't sell the items listed above and I would suggest
you
>> go to a parts store that caters to the auto body shops in your area.
>>
>> Al Fitzgerald
>> http://www.alfitz.com
>> NEW & USED SHO PARTS
>> .
>> SHO PARTS REQUEST FORM:
>> http://www.alfitz.com/sho/parts-form.htm
>>
>> WE ACCEPT MasterCard, Visa. and Discovery
>>
****************************************************************************
>> *******************************************
>> NOTE: When replying to this email, please use your 'REPLY' button to
include
>> the original message.
>>
****************************************************************************
>> *******************************************
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Kevin M. Bisch" <kevin624@bellatlantic.net>
>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 2:16 PM
>> Subject: [Shotimes] Yellow Headlights
>>
>>> Hey folks,
>>>
>>> You know what I'm talking about... those ugly sun-beaten, yellowing
>>> headlights a lot of us older-vintage SHO owners have.
>>>
>>> What's the consensus on how to cure this problem? I'm aware they are
Sable
>>> lights (Gen II's). Where can you get a new set on the cheap? Do you need
>> to
>>> repace the marker lights as well, i.e. do they look bad when new
>> headlights
>>> are next to them?
>>>
>>> Any thoughts would be appreciated, as this is my next project.
>>>
>>>
>>> --Kevin
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Shotimes mailing list
>>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shotimes mailing list
>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
> --
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__>
_
>
> '95 ATX ~139 000 km
> Mods&Service page: http://hanker.tripod.com/sho.htm
> Ontario SHO enthusiast club: http://www.shopower.com/
> High tech Automotive lighting faq: http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__>
_
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
--__--__--
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:16:37 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Stalling Problem
From: Jeff Costantino <jeff@hookt-up.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Have you checked the plug wells for oil, new plugs and wires, fuel filter,
blah blah... All the usual stuff that goes wrong first? My problem is most
likely VSS related (car doesn't like to shift at the right time and
sometimes pops out of gear when stopping) but yours sounds like fuel
delivery or spark.
Change your fuel filter if you haven't already, very easy 30 minute job the
first time. Just make sure you depressurize your fuel system first or you'll
get a shower :)
Jeff - 95 atx
btw: what was AZ's part number for the VSS?
On 3/22/03 8:31 AM, "Marc Randolph" <gsf1299@speedfactory.net> wrote:
> Hi david,
>
> Sorry to hear about your impending drop of your ride. I know how you feel.
> You have to love these things because, every 500 miles, there's something
> else to fool with. I'm stuck on mine. I can't see the speed sensor causing
a
> park stall but, hopefully, the list can help.
> Marc/Atl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Duffield" <OneNuke89@cox.net>
> To: "Shotimes message" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 2:21 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] Stalling Problem
>
>
>> OK. I'm finally back, asking questions again. Used to love Topica but I
>> guess I'll have to get used to this.
>> Anyway, here's the problem. While sitting in park, at what should be
> idle,
>> the car stalls. When it is in gear, it runs kind of rough, but doesn't
>> stall. I've read the shotimes.com thing on stalling and have been told
>> something about the speed sensor. Could this be the culprit, or at least
>> part of it? If it is....where the heck is it? AZ shows they are only
> about
>> $16. This is about the last money I'm going to spend on it. As soon as
I
>> can.....it's gone. I've put more money into it than I did to buy it in
> the
>> first place in '99. So, I anxiously await the replies.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> David
>> 1993 ATX w/ 3.2L
>> 107,000 miles
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shotimes mailing list
>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
--__--__--
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 08:21:11 -0700 (MST)
From: shospeed@bigplanet.com
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Proof is in the pudding. Ran 14.5 @ 97 in full weight 95 with 80mm and Ted
B LPM. How many stock MAF's are going that quick in full weight GEN II's?
Uhmm, none me thinks:D
Toolman
>
>
>> Hopefully someone can fulfill your request.
>>
>> However, FWIW from the old curmudgeon.....sell the LPM and 80mm MAF. Put
>the
>> stock 55mm MAF back on....with the Y-pipe and UDPs the car will run
>better.
>> No, don't go via "butt dyno", get on a Dynojet or do 1/4 mile runs.
>>
>> Opening the secondaries sooner is counterproductive. The idle works fine
>> without resetting with the UDPs. If you really feel that you need to
spend
>> money on a MAF, go a calibrated Pro-M MAF and forget the LPM.
>>
>> Now, I am not against LPMs, but I feel that they have their value in
>heavily
>> modified cars (Supercharger, turbocharger, big NOS hit, etc), but are a
>> waste for basic bolt-on cars....it's just one more thing to go wrong, and
>> gives no appreciable performance gain.
>>
>> Ron Porter
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of SHOMail
>> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 6:11 PM
>> To: SHOtimes
>> Subject: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
>>
>>
>> I have a Ted B. LPM which does not work
>> after proper installation (fan turns on and vehicle will
>> not start). He and I are attempting
>> at this time to determine if it is the LPM or the
>> computer. I do not know anyone with a GEN2 MTX
>> in my area so I am looking for help.
>>
>> Is there anyone with a GEN2 MTX and currently running
>> an LPM that would be willing to plug this thing in
>> and see if it works ? Keep in mind I have some mods
>> that he programmed in for me but the thing should still
>> start the car.
>>
>> This is what I had it programmed for:
>> X2J ECU, 80mm MAF, raised idle for UDPs, Y-Pipe,
>> lower RPM for secondaries to open, 155lph fuel pump.
>>
>> I will send it to you with some $$ to send it back to me.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chad L
>> 92 Red MTX
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shotimes mailing list
>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shotimes mailing list
>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
--__--__--
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 08:23:44 -0700 (MST)
From: shospeed@bigplanet.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
And oh yeah, zero driveability problems, and 27 mpg to boot. If only rod
bearings were as reliable as my 80mm and LPM were:D
Toolman
>It's a trade-off....
>
>We either continue the flame topic, or we put up with the same number of
>stupid questions about drivability problems that can be solved by pulling
>those parts off the car.
>
>FWIW, I had an LPM and the 80mm MAF on my '89 as a part of the BOS package.
>It worked fine for me, but Mallinson's car ran the same with the same HP
>with a 77MM Pro-M MAF and no LPM.....which I like better with one less part
>to go wrong. Plus the addition of the MAF and LPM after I had the other
>parts installed gave virtually NO power increase that I could
>feel......there was "maybe" a bit over 6K, but no other gain. The dyno
>showed power over 6K, but the butt dyno can't feel it (read the HP & Torque
>Primer on the FAQ that I wrote years back).
>
>Plus, many of the later models have had "issues" with getting an LPM
>calibrated right (Vadim did the original calibration on his '89). It just
>ain't worth messin' with......spend the LPM money on suspension or brake
>parts, it's a better bang for the buck.
>
>Ron Porter
>'95 MTX: Koni/Eibachs, 24/26mm bars, aluminum SF bushings, '96 brake
>upgrade, proportioning valve plugs, 215/55/16 Firehawk tires on
>slicers........and an absolutely stock motor down to the paper filter
>element.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Don McKinnon (AST) [mailto:dmckinnon@asttechlabs.com]
>Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 6:05 PM
>To: Ron Porter; SHOtimes
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
>
>
>Ah Ron do we have to start this topic flame again <LOL>!
>
>Don McKinnon
>95 MTX - White/Mocha 90k miles
>Stage 1 Power Package with Stage 1cams
>Canyon Carver Road/Race Suspension
>Quaife & HiRevs Competition Clutch
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Porter
>Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 5:47 PM
>To: SHOtimes
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
>
>
>Hopefully someone can fulfill your request.
>
>However, FWIW from the old curmudgeon.....sell the LPM and 80mm MAF. Put
the
>stock 55mm MAF back on....with the Y-pipe and UDPs the car will run better.
>No, don't go via "butt dyno", get on a Dynojet or do 1/4 mile runs.
>
>Opening the secondaries sooner is counterproductive. The idle works fine
>without resetting with the UDPs. If you really feel that you need to spend
>money on a MAF, go a calibrated Pro-M MAF and forget the LPM.
>
>Now, I am not against LPMs, but I feel that they have their value in
heavily
>modified cars (Supercharger, turbocharger, big NOS hit, etc), but are a
>waste for basic bolt-on cars....it's just one more thing to go wrong, and
>gives no appreciable performance gain.
>
>Ron Porter
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of SHOMail
>Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 6:11 PM
>To: SHOtimes
>Subject: [Shotimes] Help with LPM
>
>
>I have a Ted B. LPM which does not work
>after proper installation (fan turns on and vehicle will
>not start). He and I are attempting
>at this time to determine if it is the LPM or the
>computer. I do not know anyone with a GEN2 MTX
>in my area so I am looking for help.
>
>Is there anyone with a GEN2 MTX and currently running
>an LPM that would be willing to plug this thing in
>and see if it works ? Keep in mind I have some mods
>that he programmed in for me but the thing should still
>start the car.
>
>This is what I had it programmed for:
>X2J ECU, 80mm MAF, raised idle for UDPs, Y-Pipe,
>lower RPM for secondaries to open, 155lph fuel pump.
>
>I will send it to you with some $$ to send it back to me.
>
>Thanks,
>Chad L
>92 Red MTX
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
--__--__--
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:37:50 -0500
From: Herman Anker <heranker@rogers.com>
To: Al Fitz <alfitz@alfitz.com>, _SHOTIMES II <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Yellow Headlights
Yes, it is very true. The bottom line is how much each person value their
time. And to do
a good job headlights should be taken off prior to sanding/washing, and that
can take a few hours with rusty clips.
Al Fitz wrote:
> If you have a GEN I SHO, replacement may be the way to go, but for GEN II
> owners, the new headlights are very expensive and even used ones will cost
> over $100 for a set.
>
> Al Fitz SHO Specials
> http://www.alfitz.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Herman Anker" <heranker@rogers.com>
> Cc: "_SHOTIMES II" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 12:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Yellow Headlights
>
> > Note that this has to be repeated evry 6 months or so. Of course, next
> time will be a 5-10 minutes job. This can be somewhat eliminated if
painted
> with UV protectant paint. See bottom of
> http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/tools-materials.htm for products.
> Headlights may be dirty inside as well, so they might require a throughout
> 1h shake with hot water and a drop of dish detergent followed by a few
rinse
> cycles of destilled water. All in all, I'd go get some new ones - too much
> effort to get them almost as good as new. This is my personal view.
> >
> > alfitz@alfitz.com wrote:
> >
> > > I have the perfect cure for yellowing lights.
> > >
> > > Materials needed are:
> > >
> > > 1) New ScotchBrite pad
> > > 2) Maguiar's Mirror Glaze #18
> > > 3) Maguiar's Mirror Glaze #17
> > >
> > > STEP 1: Using a damp ScotchBrite pad, soak it with #17. Scrub the lens
> in
> > > one direction only, don't use a swirl pattern. Scrub it until your arm
> > > hurts.
> > >
> > > STEP 2: Using a damp soft terry cloth towel, soak it with #17 and
repeat
> the
> > > above scrubbing.
> > >
> > > STEP 3: Using a clean dry terry cloth towel, soak it in #18 and repeat
> above
> > > scrubbing.
> > >
> > > This procedure will remove the yellow almost completely and renew the
> look
> > > of your lights. Do one light at a time to see the remarkable
difference
> it
> > > makes.
> > >
> > > Before you ask, I don't sell the items listed above and I would
suggest
> you
> > > go to a parts store that caters to the auto body shops in your area.
> > >
> > > Al Fitzgerald
> > > http://www.alfitz.com
> > > NEW & USED SHO PARTS
> > > .
> > > SHO PARTS REQUEST FORM:
> > > http://www.alfitz.com/sho/parts-form.htm
> > >
> > > WE ACCEPT MasterCard, Visa. and Discovery
> > >
>
****************************************************************************
> > > *******************************************
> > > NOTE: When replying to this email, please use your 'REPLY' button to
> include
> > > the original message.
> > >
>
****************************************************************************
> > > *******************************************
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Kevin M. Bisch" <kevin624@bellatlantic.net>
> > > To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 2:16 PM
> > > Subject: [Shotimes] Yellow Headlights
> > >
> > > > Hey folks,
> > > >
> > > > You know what I'm talking about... those ugly sun-beaten, yellowing
> > > > headlights a lot of us older-vintage SHO owners have.
> > > >
> > > > What's the consensus on how to cure this problem? I'm aware they are
> Sable
> > > > lights (Gen II's). Where can you get a new set on the cheap? Do you
> need
> > > to
> > > > repace the marker lights as well, i.e. do they look bad when new
> > > headlights
> > > > are next to them?
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts would be appreciated, as this is my next project.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --Kevin
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> > --
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> ___
> >
> > '95 ATX ~139 000 km
> > Mods&Service page: http://hanker.tripod.com/sho.htm
> > Ontario SHO enthusiast club: http://www.shopower.com/
> > High tech Automotive lighting faq: http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> ___
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
> >
--
____________________________________________________________________________
___
'95 ATX ~139 000 km
Mods&Service page: http://hanker.tripod.com/sho.htm
Ontario SHO enthusiast club: http://www.shopower.com/
High tech Automotive lighting faq: http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com
____________________________________________________________________________
___
--__--__--
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:53:35 -0500
From: Leigh Smith <leighsm@concentric.net>
To: "Mark D. Mallory" <mmallory78@earthlink.net>
CC: George Fourchy <krazgeo@jps.net>, shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Struts & Springs
Mark;
You have a 95 with the softer stock springs & sway bars. The Gen 1s with
the stiffer stock springs (JIT/EMT 130/200 lb/in) definately pogo with
sensatraks, in the front only. The rears are O.K.
My "new" '94 has TRS front springs, and I can tell you for a fact that
both the springs and the bars are much softer than my '89, which is 2
feet away from it. Although I do know know the spring rates yet. The
springs are stiffer, and the sway bars are much stiffer, and they both
have an effect on the shock.
Please refrain from making such definative statements as "smoking crack"
unless you know what you are talking about, because you obviously do
not, and you do not have your facts right.
I believe what you really meant to say was "they make no difference on
my car".
Maybe someone can enlighten us on the Gen II spring rates, because
inquiring minds would like to know. :-)
Leigh
Leigh
Mark D. Mallory wrote:
> There is absolutely nothing wrong with Monroe Sensatrac struts for a stock
> suspension. Two key words there are "Sensatrac" and "Stock". Other
listers
> have complained about the Monroe-Matic struts which are more of an economy
> strut. Some have also complained about a "pogo" affect with the
sensatracs.
> Personally I think they are either smoking crack or don't have a stock
> suspension.
>
> With a completely stock suspension I have had no problems or complaints
with
> the Sensatrac struts. They are somewhere around 15% stiffer than stock
> struts and there is no pogo affect what so ever. I am more than pleased
> with them.
>
> As far as springs are concerned... the Cargo Coils are the way to go.
They
> will definitely fix your sagging rear.
>
> If you plan to go with a stock suspension, Sensatracs and Cargo coils are
> the best comprimise between quality, price, and availability. You will be
> happy with the results.
>
> Mark Mallory
> Toledo, Ohio
> '95 SHO MTX
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of George Fourchy
>>Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 4:58 PM
>>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Struts & Springs
>>
>>
>>On Fri, 21 Mar 2003 16:13:10 EST, BOB6867@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Local Tire dealer
>>>wants to sale me top of the line Monroe Struts and Spicer Springs. Any
>>>comments would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>Whether you want to build your car to get handling improvements or
>>just standard
>>family car duty, you want to use NAPA or CargoCoil replacement
>>rear (and front)
>>springs. If you are really lucky you can find a decent set of
>>springs off a SLO
>>Taurus in a wrecking yard (I did), but you won't know if they are
>>good or not until
>>you install them, and that is a lot of work. It's better to just
>>replace with the
>>aftermarket replacements. They cost about 80 bucks a pair. Get
>>the ones that are
>>for Taurus LX....they're a little stronger.
>>
>>Struts.....stay away from Monroe. Everyone on the list who has
>>tried them has been
>>dissatisfied. For performance, you can go to Tokiko or Koni.
>>Tokiko struts bolt
>>in.... Konis are cartridges which go into drilled and cut stock
>>housings. Not hard
>>to do.... takes about 20 more minutes per corner to install Konis.
>>They are
>>expensive.... about 125 each. Tokikos go anywhere from 100 to 110
>>each. Konis are
>>adjustable in ONE direction....not that much better, in my
>>opinion.... others
>>disagree. Tikikos also seem to last longer over the long haul.
>>They are fairly
>>stiff, but make the car a lot of fun to drive. They will work
>>with any spring.
>>
>>There are replacement struts that approximate the ones your car
>>came with from the
>>factory.....I have not tried them yet, but I will be later (that
>>doesn't help you
>>now!). They are made by a company called Sachs, and are available
>
>>from shox.com .
>
>>They cost about 275 or so a set of 4. The other struts are
>>available there, too.
>>They are also available from SHONut Performance....go to the
>>SHOClub website to get
>>the link.
>>
>>Go to shotimes.com and go to care and feeding...suspension mods or
>>something like
>>that, and read the various inputs folks have added over the years
>>regarding working
>>on struts and springs. Many folks want to lower their cars, and I
>>discuss that
>>there.
>>
>>If you have any more questions, ask us...we know more about these
>>cars than anyone
>>at Ford ever dreamed.
>>
>>George and the Lowrider
>>_______________________________________________
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>>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
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