[Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment
(long)
Midwest SHO Specialists
SHOtimes@midwestsho.com
Mon, 5 May 2003 19:10:05 -0500
Ken, All is not lost. I had a customer use a full can of Berrymans in his
heads and then try to start the motor. Needless to say, it locked and
didn't start.
Enter me, I took all the plugs out and turned the motor over a few times. I
got shot with Berrymans in the eye. It's not fun, despite what most say.
Put the plugs back in, car still sounds like it's running with no
compression and it doesn't start. The plugs had fouled. Cleaned them,
reinstalled them, and all was well.
Give it a try. If the motor is turning over and not backfiring, you're
close. :>)
Mike Kopstain
Midwest SHO Specialists
827 North Chestnut Avenue
Arlington Heights, IL 60004
www.MidwestSHO.com
Sales@midwestsho.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment
(long)
> I did use carb cleaner on the heads. But that was two weeks ago wouldn't
> most of the liquid hace evaporated by now ? The thing I am most concerned
> about is that the car started and now it will not. When it was running it
> something happened......something got screwed up in the valve train and
and
> the timing belt snaped. The way the engine is spinning the whole dance is
> not working.
>
> - ground strap is attached on left rear intake support bolt the sequence
is
> like this, nut ground strap electrical harness bracket then the nut that
is
> part of the stud then it goes into the intake.
>
> - DIS is connected.
>
> - where is the TPS connector, I seem to remember it is a single connection
> from when I replaced it on my '91. That could foul things up but the
> engine would not spin like this even if the computer did not know where
the
> crank was.
>
> Tell me more about the carb cleaner in the cylinder head...liquid is
> incompressible fluid and then turn the car and what breaks ?
>
> I have to pull the cover off the timing belt housing and see if she is
> turning. That is pretty easy to get to.
>
> Ken
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donelson Don" <1badsho@mail.tnh.net>
> To: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
> Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 5:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment
> (long)
>
>
> > Did u put carb cleanor down the heads .. were the intake bolts too or
just
> on the runners only ? BIG NO NO
> >
> > I would check your ground strap that hooks to the back of the intake.
> >
> > Also make sure u re-attached your DIS connections. The do-hicky on the
> front of the motor. If they arent properly seated your motor wont start.
> >
> > make sure your TPS sensor is hooked up and your maff
> >
> > dond
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> > From: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
> > Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:07:55 -0400
> >
> > >This is not the first time I have pulled the SHO engine apart enough to
> get
> > >the valve shims but this is the first time that I have actually removed
> and
> > >replaced shims. The previous time I pulled the valve covers was
because
> there
> > >was oil in the plug wells of my '91 but at that time I was not
interested
> in
> > >the valve lash.
> > >
> > >Here is what I did to get my car not to start. Did all the obvious
things
> you
> > >got to do to get to the cams, pulled the hood, intake and valve covers.
> I
> > >used my Helm service manual and the Stage II cam installation video as
> > >reference. I got the tappet depressor and holder from the SHO Shop.
> > >
> > >Notables
> > >1) The only deviation from the video that I did not think was a big
deal
> but
> > >maybe it was.....in order to measure all the gaps I was bumping the
> starter to
> > >turn the cams in the video they put a wrench on the fly wheel but since
I
> was
> > >not doing a timing belt I was not interested in pulling that side of
the
> car
> > >apart.
> > >2) When I measured the gaps two weeks ago prior to ordering the shims I
> got
> > >about .002" larger gaps than I got when I got back into the car after
> > >recieving the shims I thought I needed to bring everything back into
> spec. So
> > >an exhaust that was .016" needing to be replaced was now coming up
> .013-.014
> > >with the original shim. I found this out because as I was installing
the
> new
> > >shims the resulting gap was much smaller than I had orginally
calculated.
> The
> > >only thing I can think of is engine temperature, Ii believe I drove the
> car
> > >from the street into my driveway the morning of the initial
measurements
> so if
> > >anything the motor was warmer the day of the intial measurements and
> unless
> > >there are dissimilar materials in the valve train I can not see why I
> would
> > >get a smaller gap 2 weeks later with the same shim with a colder
engine.
> > >Anyway I ended up only replacing 2 exhaust shims when originally I had
> planned
> > >on replacing about 5 total shims. I just could not put the motor back
> > >together with an intake gap at .004".
> > >3) New plugs and new wires installed (checked the firing order already
> and it
> > >is OK)
> > >4) Put small amount of dielectric grease on both ends of the plug wire
> prior
> > >to installation (have not done this during previous R&R of plugs and
> wires but
> > >heard this was a good thing to do, yes?)
> > >5) New gasket for the valve covers, RTV'd the plug well seals.
> > >6) New gasket for the intake manifold.
> > >7) cleaned the intake manifold by hand with carb cleaner
> > >8) cleaned IAB valve per instructions on FAQ
> > >9) cleaned intak on cylinder head with carb cleaner - basically a lot
of
> carb
> > >cleaner all around.
> > >
> > >Put everything back together (as far as I know). On the intial key
turn
> the
> > >engine starts quickly and dies just as all the other SHOs I have used
> carb
> > >cleaner to clean the intake. Turn the key again and engine just turns
> but
> > >sounds pretty normal. Turn the key the third time and the engine
spins.
> I say
> > >spin because it sounds more like someone pulled all the plugs out
before
> I
> > >turned the key this last time. Engine seems to be turnning faster now
> and
> > >with less resistance as if there is not much compression going on in
the
> > >engine.
> > >
> > >Pulled the KOEO codes since that is all the car will do now and all I
get
> is
> > >111 (system pass) and 542 (fuel pump secondary circuit failure). The
> second
> > >code shows some promise but when I turn the key I can hear the fuel
pump
> > >charging so I believe the pump is working. Need to get my hands on a
> > >compression gauge.
> > >
> > >HELP !!
> > >Ken Johnson
> > >'95 Blue MTX will not start
> > >'91 Mocha Mocha runs fine
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >Shotimes mailing list
> > >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > >
> >
> > --
> >
> > dond
> > 91 Super SHO II
> >
> > All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
> >
> > -3.2 ATX block
> > -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> > -Stage I cams
> > -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> > -Ported intake & runners
> > -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> > -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> > -Hi-flow exhaust
> > -BBB
> > -SHO SHOP T.B.
> > -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> > -Quaife
> > -CAI
> > -UDP
> > ****
> > -Cowl hood
> > -Momo 17x8 rims
> > -Police grill
> > -Custom two tone interior
> > -Complete sunpro gauges
> > oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> > ****
> > -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> > -Polyurethane at all corners
> > -Solid-sub frame bushings
> > -Frame stiffners
> > -Adjustable rear control arms
> > -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> > ****
> > -12" rotors at all four corners
> > -Steel braided lines
> >
> >
> > --
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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