[Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment
(long)
Ken Johnson
kenjo@attbi.com
Mon, 5 May 2003 18:14:18 -0400
I did use carb cleaner on the heads. But that was two weeks ago wouldn't
most of the liquid hace evaporated by now ? The thing I am most concerned
about is that the car started and now it will not. When it was running it
something happened......something got screwed up in the valve train and and
the timing belt snaped. The way the engine is spinning the whole dance is
not working.
- ground strap is attached on left rear intake support bolt the sequence is
like this, nut ground strap electrical harness bracket then the nut that is
part of the stud then it goes into the intake.
- DIS is connected.
- where is the TPS connector, I seem to remember it is a single connection
from when I replaced it on my '91. That could foul things up but the
engine would not spin like this even if the computer did not know where the
crank was.
Tell me more about the carb cleaner in the cylinder head...liquid is
incompressible fluid and then turn the car and what breaks ?
I have to pull the cover off the timing belt housing and see if she is
turning. That is pretty easy to get to.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donelson Don" <1badsho@mail.tnh.net>
To: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment
(long)
> Did u put carb cleanor down the heads .. were the intake bolts too or just
on the runners only ? BIG NO NO
>
> I would check your ground strap that hooks to the back of the intake.
>
> Also make sure u re-attached your DIS connections. The do-hicky on the
front of the motor. If they arent properly seated your motor wont start.
>
> make sure your TPS sensor is hooked up and your maff
>
> dond
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
> Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 17:07:55 -0400
>
> >This is not the first time I have pulled the SHO engine apart enough to
get
> >the valve shims but this is the first time that I have actually removed
and
> >replaced shims. The previous time I pulled the valve covers was because
there
> >was oil in the plug wells of my '91 but at that time I was not interested
in
> >the valve lash.
> >
> >Here is what I did to get my car not to start. Did all the obvious things
you
> >got to do to get to the cams, pulled the hood, intake and valve covers.
I
> >used my Helm service manual and the Stage II cam installation video as
> >reference. I got the tappet depressor and holder from the SHO Shop.
> >
> >Notables
> >1) The only deviation from the video that I did not think was a big deal
but
> >maybe it was.....in order to measure all the gaps I was bumping the
starter to
> >turn the cams in the video they put a wrench on the fly wheel but since I
was
> >not doing a timing belt I was not interested in pulling that side of the
car
> >apart.
> >2) When I measured the gaps two weeks ago prior to ordering the shims I
got
> >about .002" larger gaps than I got when I got back into the car after
> >recieving the shims I thought I needed to bring everything back into
spec. So
> >an exhaust that was .016" needing to be replaced was now coming up
.013-.014
> >with the original shim. I found this out because as I was installing the
new
> >shims the resulting gap was much smaller than I had orginally calculated.
The
> >only thing I can think of is engine temperature, Ii believe I drove the
car
> >from the street into my driveway the morning of the initial measurements
so if
> >anything the motor was warmer the day of the intial measurements and
unless
> >there are dissimilar materials in the valve train I can not see why I
would
> >get a smaller gap 2 weeks later with the same shim with a colder engine.
> >Anyway I ended up only replacing 2 exhaust shims when originally I had
planned
> >on replacing about 5 total shims. I just could not put the motor back
> >together with an intake gap at .004".
> >3) New plugs and new wires installed (checked the firing order already
and it
> >is OK)
> >4) Put small amount of dielectric grease on both ends of the plug wire
prior
> >to installation (have not done this during previous R&R of plugs and
wires but
> >heard this was a good thing to do, yes?)
> >5) New gasket for the valve covers, RTV'd the plug well seals.
> >6) New gasket for the intake manifold.
> >7) cleaned the intake manifold by hand with carb cleaner
> >8) cleaned IAB valve per instructions on FAQ
> >9) cleaned intak on cylinder head with carb cleaner - basically a lot of
carb
> >cleaner all around.
> >
> >Put everything back together (as far as I know). On the intial key turn
the
> >engine starts quickly and dies just as all the other SHOs I have used
carb
> >cleaner to clean the intake. Turn the key again and engine just turns
but
> >sounds pretty normal. Turn the key the third time and the engine spins.
I say
> >spin because it sounds more like someone pulled all the plugs out before
I
> >turned the key this last time. Engine seems to be turnning faster now
and
> >with less resistance as if there is not much compression going on in the
> >engine.
> >
> >Pulled the KOEO codes since that is all the car will do now and all I get
is
> >111 (system pass) and 542 (fuel pump secondary circuit failure). The
second
> >code shows some promise but when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump
> >charging so I believe the pump is working. Need to get my hands on a
> >compression gauge.
> >
> >HELP !!
> >Ken Johnson
> >'95 Blue MTX will not start
> >'91 Mocha Mocha runs fine
> >_______________________________________________
> >Shotimes mailing list
> >Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
>
> --
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
>
>
> --
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