[Shotimes] Re: Water pump replacement question

[fwhittle@mindspring.com]

Nice write-up, Herman.  I wish I had that before I started.  It's better than any other info I've been able to glean (the Helms is not much help, and the Mark N. video, as good as it is, is geared toward the MTX).  That pulley bracket that covers the water pump had me pulling what's left of my hair out!  I think the neighbors were ready to call the funny farm on me.  I did discover something interesting.  At some point in the past, someone (I'm thinking more than one person) used my engine as an ashtray!!!  I found several cigarette butts underneath the coolant crossover tube, inside the intake valley.  At least two different brands (Saratoga and Marlboro).  Might this have been Ford factory workers?  Anyone else have this experience?  
     I avoided having to remove the cam pulleys and rear cover by using someone's idea of separating the CKP wires from the connectors.  Once I figured out how to do it, it was VERY easy.  The single wire connector was the easier one, as the tab that holds the wire in is easy to see and easy to move so the wire will pull out.  The 4-wire connector is a bit more of a challenge.  If you look at it, you'll see a red piece between the wires at the face of the connector (true for the Ford piece, others may be different).  Gently pry this out with a small jewelers screwdriver.  Then, at the rear of the connector where the wires enter it, there's a soft rubber grommet that you can carefully pry out with your jewelers screwdriver.  After that, look inside the face of the connector and you'll see 4 tiny gray tabs, 1 for each wire.  Again, using the tiny screwdriver, gently pry these away from each connector while pulling the wire from the rear.  You can only do two at a time, as they interfere with each other.  Here's a crude representation:  
0)(0

0)(0
The left and right tabs cannot both be pried away at the same time.  Once the wires are out of the connector, attach a length of stiff wire (I actually used a long zip tie) to tie the wires together and feed them behind the rear cover, then put them back in the connectors.  I simply cut the wires on the old CKP and used that connector as a reference for putting the wires back in the new connector.  Don't forget to put the red thing back in.  

Frank Whittle
'95 ATX   


Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 08:23:41 -0400
From: Herman Anker <heranker@rogers.com>
CC: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Water pump replacement question

Ford sells new waterpumps now? A couple of years ago, they were all
rebuild. Considering the amount of work you are doing, make shure it is totally
"new". The bearings broke on my so called "new" pump after six months, so I
went and got an aftermarked part, which was traced backwords to be
manufacturer for Ford. Anyways.. I made small wrightup as well, so have a look if u 
want: http://hanker.tripod.com/waterpump.htm

fwhittle@mindspring.com wrote:

> Hey-
>      I'm in the middle of doing the timing belt/ckp/water pump
replacement
> on my '95 ATX.  I bought a new Ford water pump, which is complete with
the
> front and rear sections.  Is it necessary to replace the whole thing, or
> can I just separate the front pump portion from the rear piece and
install
> the pump portion on my old rear piece still bolted in place?  Is the
gasket
> between the pieces permatexed in place, or just sandwiched between?  It
> looks like this would be a MUCH easier way to go than removing the whole
> thing.
>      I do like the idea someone had of separating the wires of the CKP
> from the connectors to facilitate removal and installation without
removing
> the rear plate behind the cam sprockets.  It took a while to figure out
how
> to do it, but it is pretty simple.
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Frank Whittle
> '95 ATX