[Shotimes] Stereo Questions

[Leigh Smith]

Steve;

I do agree with your recommendations of keeping the JBL amps, if you are 
talking of starting with an intact JBL system with 2 amplifiers, all 
working. The right patch cable would be the most economical way to go. 
Sorry to mislead anyone. My 94 JBL system was a wiring nightmare, 
missing amps, etc. and too much trouble returning to stock.  

On the other hand, I found exactly the opposite with my 89 that had only 
the (intact) premium sound amp, and the right patch cable required a 
signal convertor box to keep it, and without it the volume was defening 
even at the first level, so the most economical thing to do was to 
bypass the premium sound amp. Same power, $10.

Did the the patch cable you used on your Gen II JBL system have some 
sort of signal convertor box?

FWI: New Alpines start at $164 on sale at Circuit City!

Leigh


Steve Tatro wrote:

>In my limited SHO audio experience, I've found exactly the opposite.
>
>With my '90 (with JBL), I replaced the HU only with a JVC merely because I
>wanted an in-dash CD player.  I spent the $40 to incorporate the factory
>amps, as I wanted to keep the woofers (I refuse to refer to these as subs).
>As I understand it, using the bypass would've only sent the HU's power
>through the 4 main speakers.
>
>With my '93 (also with JBL), I replaced the HU only with a Blaupunkt, for
>the same reasons; I needed an in-dash CD player (and wanted a remote control
>HU).  I used the same OEM interface that allowed me to incorporate the amps,
>as I obviously wanted to keep the subwoofer.  Sure it's only a 6.5" low
>driver, but it's better than the 4 main speakers can do.
>
>With both the cheap JVC and the cheap Blau, I was surprised by the
>improvement in sound.  We're not talking about adding earth-shattering bass
>or deafening highs, but there is definitely better shielding and better
>total sound quality from even basic (yet respectable) aftermarket HUs.  I
>didn't belive it, so I spent a day with the original, then a day with the
>JVC, then back and forth.  There was a very noticeable improvement with both
>aftermarket HUs.
>
>Also, I believe the stock HU has a feature that prematurely quits increasing
>the bass output.  This seems to be gone with aftermarket HUs so I'm just
>assuming it's built-in to the Ford HU.  Can anyone confirm this?
>
>The only danger in this is that if you're not careful you can blow the tiny
>JBL sub.  I've done it twice within the past year.
>
>For anyone on a budget, I recommend the following: (1) make sure all your
>factory speakers are in good condition.  (2) replace the HU with one of at
>least decent quality.  No generic Wal-Mart brands, but Alpine not required.
>(3) Add some flush-mount or surface-mount tweets to the sails or door
>panels.  As nice as it is replacing the door speakers to improve sound
>(especially highs) they still fire at the dash and do little good.  Tweets
>is the way to go.
>
>Sorry to ramble.
>
>Steve Tatro
>Red/Black '93 with 167k miles
>Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Leigh Smith" <leighsm@comcast.net>
>To: "Jonathon Beisler" <JBEIS001@stvincentshealth.com>
>Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 6:02 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Stereo Questions
>
>
>  
>
>>Jonathan;
>>
>>My take on ford stereos is this: The head units don't have any power,
>>the amplifier is in the amp in the trunk. Aftermarket units put 45
>>wattts in the head unit, which is about all the Ford trunk amp has. Plus
>>Ford uses some really low power/resistance signals to the amp that are
>>not standard specs for the aftermarket. So using an aftermarket head
>>unit and a Ford amp is very difficult to get to work, it is only 45
>>watts anyway, so why bother?
>>
>>So; Consider the ford head unit & amp as a package, keep them as a pair,
>>or replace them with a single aftermarket head unit with the same power,
>>and use the bypass cables to straighten out the wiring. Someone cut all
>>the **** wires on my 94's JBL system, and it took me hours to straighten
>>it all out!! The 89 was plug-n-play with the right patch cable.
>>
>>The sub is a separate matter. It will need it's own aftermarket amp.
>>100-150W or so & up. My stock 94 JBL subwoofer speaker is tolerating a
>>200W max Jensen amp O.K. without blowing it up, so far.
>>
>>Leigh
>>
>>
>>Jonathon Beisler wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Does anyone know the watts output for the factory sound systems that came
>>>      
>>>
>in the 94 SHO?  I have the "premium" system with the separate CD player,
>amps and subwoofer if that makes any difference.  I have aftermarket
>speakers now and am looking to upgrade the deck.
>  
>
>>>Also, do any of you think that it would be possible to wire in a 2001
>>>      
>>>
>double din 6 disc in dash changer to this earlier car?
>  
>
>>>Lastly, I have been looking at some of the Sony Xplod systems and am
>>>      
>>>
>wondering about powering the amp.  I know that Crutchfield will give me the
>bypass for the amps so where does that leave my sub?  THe one that I am
>looking at has 52 x 4 max power output so I am wondering how much better it
>will make music, so to speak.
>  
>
>>>Thanks for any advice or knowledge in advance.
>>>JB
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>Shotimes mailing list
>>>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>>>      
>>>
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