[Shotimes] Oil temp gauge//hot oil temps

[Donelson Don]

Ron


240 is pushing it .... but I am running a 3.2 motor and shawn P and some other guys who have heavily modded 3.2 gen I's have seen higher temps than normal 3.0 Gen I cars. I say Gen I cars for I think most will agree that the Gen II design doesnt breath or flow as well as the Gen I.

I am probably around 200 to 220 80 % of the time ... and a few jaunts higher or lower.

With this said. When I ran at Oklahoma .. I had the huge Go Dan radiator and this bad boy makes a huge difference.

Water temps were incredible on the track ... almost within normal range.

dond

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
Date:  Wed, 14 May 2003 18:04:21 -0400

>Going from memory here on some of this.....and I also don't have the dozens
>of posts from the 911 list on this topic.
>
>Don, I believe you are being overly cautious. Temps around 212-220 are
>actually desirable, as they boil off water and other unwanted stuff. IIRC
>(CRS strikes often!!), 250-270 under hard (like track) use isn't "TOO" bad,
>but the oil better be fresh or synthetic. If someone is seeing over 240 in
>normal spirited street use, they have other problems!!
>
>Ron Porter 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Donelson Don
>Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 6:04 PM
>To: sho2go
>Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Oil temp gauge//hot oil temps
>
>
>Normal hot oil temps will range from engine to engine and operating
>conditions.
>
>I think somewere between 190 to 220 is normal. On cool days I am 180 and in
>traffic or if I am getting on the motor I have seen as high as 250. Under
>race conditions I have seen as high as 260 .. 270.
>
>For those temps u only want synthetic oil.
>
>Regarding the low oil temp sensor ... Thats the ideal location for it.  What
>i do is disconnect the sending unit ( disconnected your low oil light will
>remain off. ) and remove the 26 mm bolt that houses  the sending unit.
>
>You than take the sender to a machine shop and have them cut off the top
>part as far down as u can with out affecting the structure integrity and
>than have them tap and thread for your brass sending unit adapter.
>
>I have done this on both of my SUPER SHO's
>
>dond