[Shotimes] CV joints
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Fri, 30 May 2003 11:04:08 -0400
Sounds easy enough. Thanks.
Mike Wojton
Toledo, Ohio
-'95 Green MTX 3/01-1/03
ShoShop y-pipe
-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Everybody is somebody else's weirdo.
"Ron Nottingham" <nottingham@alltel.net> wrote on 05/30/2003 10:07:17 AM:
> If there are not any tears in the rubber boots on the CV's, then they
are
> probably good. If you see grease on the boots, they may be bad, as
there is
> probably a rip or tear underneath the grease. CV's /usually/ do not go
bad,
> unless the grease escapes (unless, of course, you are Mark N. and some
of
> the others with super mega power SHO's, with drag slicks, and a penchant
for
> trying to hit the 11's!)
>
> Ron N. - Dalton, GA
> 90 SHO
> 89 325i
> "It takes a man to suffer ignorance and smile"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 8:49 AM
> Subject: [Shotimes] CV joints was: Just looked at a 1990 for sale
>
>
> > Speaking of CV joints, if you have one out of the car, is it easy to
tell
> > if
> > it is bad? I have to do some front end work on Car (ball joints and
> > tie rod ends) and would like to check the joints. I don't want to
replace
> > them if I don't have to. Do I just look for general slop in the
joints?
> > Boy and I thought Car was in such great shape when I bought it.
> >
> >
> > Mike Wojton
> > Toledo, Ohio
> >
> > -'95 Green MTX 3/01-1/03
> > ShoShop y-pipe
> >
> > -'95 White MTX
> > '96 Brake Upgrade
> >
> > Everybody is somebody else's weirdo.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Ron Nottingham" <nottingham@alltel.net>
> > Sent by: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > 05/30/03 07:56 AM
> >
> > To
> > <peterchase2@charter.net>, <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > cc
> >
> > Subject
> > Re: [Shotimes] Just looked at a 1990 for sale
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Run as far away from that SHO as you can!!! Sounds like too much
trouble.
> > Stay away from any with the low oil pressure light on... Sounds like
it
> > needs CV joints with the clunking. Also, with the leak under the
front
> > passenger side, it could either be the discontinued lower radiator
hose,
> > or
> > a bad overflow tank.
> >
> > Were in GA are you located? I'm in NW GA, in the heart of carpet
country,
> > Dalton :-)
> >
> > BTW, my 90 will possibly be for sale in August, I want to fix the
synchros
> > (2nd gear crunches), and replace the AC compressor before I sell it,
> > though.
> > Those are the only 2 major problems with the car right now. Minor
ones...
> > Needs a new cruise control cable, and a new overflow tank. It has
141,583
> > miles, and a rebuilt engine put in about 10k ago (rebuilt myself,
along
> > with
> > new clutch/pp/tob), bought the car in 2000 with 123k. About 5k ago,
put
> > new
> > brakes all around, and new passenger CV joint. About 9k ago, a set of
> > Yokohama AVS dB's were put on, still look like new. New starter last
year
> > (forget mileage), new radiator in 2001, new resonator last year, new
> > battery
> > last year. Only seen Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic since rebuild. Interior
is
> > great, but driver seat is starting to show some cracks, due mainly to
> > non-use (I was bitten by the Bimmer bug :-) and hot spring days.
> >
> > Ron N. - Dalton, GA
> > 90 SHO
> > 89 325i
> > "It takes a man to suffer ignorance and smile"
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <peterchase2@charter.net>
> > To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 6:25 PM
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Just looked at a 1990 for sale
> >
> >
> > > Hello everyone,
> > > I'm new to this list but I've been a fan of SHO's since they
first
> > came
> > > out. Up until now though, I haven't needed a 4-door car. My dog is
> > getting
> > > pretty big now though, and my 2-seat mr2 just isn't cutting it
anymore.
> > I
> > > just looked at a 1990 SHO manual showing 113 on the odo. The body
has
> > been
> > > resprayed in a few places but there's no rust or dents, just some
> > scratches.
> > > The front seats have covers as they're ripped, but all of the seat
> > adjustments
> > > work, as well as the power mirrors/windows etc. It had the ABS, low
oil
> > > pressure, and low oil level lights on. I checked the oil level and
it
> > was
> > > actually a little above full so I know that sensor was bad. As far
as
> > the
> > low
> > > oil pressure, there were no engine ticking or knocking noises and
the
> > car
> > > drove fine with plenty of power through the rev range. Do the oil
> > pressure
> > > sensors go bad occasionally or is it a safe bet that the
bearings/oil
> > pump
> > are
> > > bad? The rear shocks definitely were shot but the fronts were OK,
not
> > great.
> > > There was a little sloppiness in the front end
(alignment/bushings/tie
> > rods/
> > > or ball joints) and a slight clunking during accel/coast
transitions.
> > After I
> > > drove it, I noticed some coolant leaking out of what seemed to be
the
> > lower
> > > passenger side hose going into the motor. The guy (who barely
speaks
> > English)
> > > has $1500 on the windshield (which is cracked). I was thinking more
> > along
> > the
> > > lines of $500. Assuming (optimistically) that it's just the oil
sensors
> > that
> > > are bad, is it even worth that? Should I just save up and look for
a
> > > nicer/pricier example? Anyone know of any SHO's in Georgia for
sale?
> > > Thanks
in
> > advance
> > > for any help,
> > >
> > Peter
> > > Chase
> > >
> > 1
> > > 985 MR2
> > >
> > 1
> > > 969 Mustang fastback (still in restoration stages)
> > > _______________________________________________
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