[Shotimes] Misc related to subframe bushings

James White greensho@crown.net
Sat, 31 May 2003 15:04:46 -0500


I was also worried about corrosion, that is why I got the Delrin ones from
Courtney for the '95MTX.  And like the AL, they also need to be retorqued
from time to time.

But I am now worried about the standard ones on the '93MTX.  Never has had
the recall done, but Doug did the clutch on it 3 years ago and said that the
subframe bolts looked OK then.  I also noted that he modified a torch so
that it would fit through the subframe so he could heat the captive nut.

Jim White - greensho@crown.net
Valparaiso, Indiana
'93  5 SPEED   278k few mods
'95  5 SPEED   247k lots of mods (waiting for new cats..)
"double clutch"  it's good for both you and your SHO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "'Carl Prochilo'" <carl@prochilo.myserver.org>; "'Shotimes'"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Misc related to subframe bushings


> I suspect that once the two pieces corrode together after a couple of
years
> of Midwest winters, they would probably survive that way for many, many
> years. Other than swapping between cars as I did, there really is no
reason
> to pull them off of the subframe. For things like a clutch job, pulling
out
> the bolts is sufficient.
>
> I agree on the AL SFBs. If you can tolerate a bit more harshness,
> particularly on small bumps and rough roads, the AL SFBs are great! The
> sharper steering response is well worth it. You also need to torque then
> occasionally. Someone mentioned that they do it at each oil change, which
> sounds like a good idea.
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Prochilo [mailto:carl@prochilo.myserver.org]
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 3:23 PM
> To: Ron Porter; Shotimes
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Misc related to subframe bushings
>
>
> When the clutch was replaced on my 92, the subframe had to come off.  I've
> already posted on the experience getting one of the stuck bolts out, but
> while the thing was apart I was able to examine the FPS AL SFBs.  I bought
> these from Doug Lewis pretty much around the time he first started selling
> them.  They've seen a couple of NY winters and the rest of the time down
> here in FL.  These parts look about as good as when I first bought them.
If
> you can put up with the harsher ride, these puppies look to last forever.
>
> Carl P.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> To: "Shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 12:52 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] Misc related to subframe bushings
>
>
> > Much of this probably falls into the "Duh" file, but anyway...
> >
> > Had the dubious pleasure of swapping subframe bushings between the two
> cars
> > last weekend. The aluminum SFBs were in the green '95 that's being sold,
> and
> > they were swapped with the stock rubber bushings in the blue '94.
> >
> > The AL SFBs are about a year old, and I got the regular AL (not the
> > anodized) from Jomar. More corrosion than I expected (which made
removing
> a
> > couple of them an interesting experience!). I cleaned them up with some
> > coarse sandpaper, and slopped them up with grease (better than nothing,
I
> > guess!), we'll see how they hold up. I would definitely recommend
coating
> > them, although the Jomar SFBs are quite a tight fit into the subframe
and
> > into each other, so not sure that painting would be beneficial, and
> > powdercoating might be iffy (but could be worth a try).
> >
> > The '94 had what appeared to be original rubber SFBs. Not in TOO bad a
> shape
> > (they didn't disintegrate like the original '95 rubber bushings, nor the
> > ones on Ryan Staley's '91). Obviously the collars that have those four
> > little !#$%^& bolts in the front subframe are toast!! It's been said
> before,
> > but in a northern climate with snow/slush/salt, I feel that it would be
a
> > good idea to replace the SFBs every 4-5 years or so on cars that are
daily
> > drivers. Even putting in new factory rubber SFBs should keep the front
end
> a
> > lot tighter.
> >
> > Ron Porter
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