[Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

Tue, 4 Nov 2003 00:18:23 -0600

Gravity bleed is a good way in the rear to see if your brake hoses are any
good.  If they have arteriolosclerosis then all you will get is an
occasional, slow
drip.  If the hose are good you get a nice steady drip with the bleeder
screw removed.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "'Paul Nimz'" <niks@dialnetwork.com>; "'SHOTimes-Mailing List'"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 3:05 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

> There are also some 911 guys who use the Gravity Bleed method. It isn't
> quick, but it seems to be effective.
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Paul Nimz
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 1:09 AM
> To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> I feel it is very easy to bleed the brakes by yourself.  All you need is
3'
> of 1/4" ID clear hose and a can.
>
> Paul Nimz
> '97 TR
> '93 EG mtx
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Noah South III" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>
> To: "SHOTimes-Mailing List" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> > Well I'm far from He-Man and I've had little trouble screwing the rear
> > calipers back into place on my SHOs with the bleeder valve closed.
> Anyway,
> > it's kinda hard to bleed the brakes by yourself, which is a very good
> reason
> > not to bleed your brakes at the time of replacing the pads.
> >
> > Oh and contrary to what some people think you do NOT have to push the
rear
> > pistons in while turning them, you just turn them.  I know this for a
fact
> > since I've done the rear brakes on a Ford somewhere in the range of 30
> > times.  Never had to push, only had to turn.  Air tools also helps this
go
> > even faster.  With my impact gun I can compress a front caliper in about
> 10
> > seconds using a REALLY old caliper compression tool from the 70's.  No
the
> > impact doesn't damage the calipers, provided I'm not stupid and don't
> wrench
> > it down as hard as I can.  Again, you should always bleed the brakes
after
> > doing work on them, it's just good habit.  You'll understand why when
you
> > remove a bunch of orange cloudy fluid from the caliper too.
> >
> > -Noah South III
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> > To: "'Noah South III'" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>; "'SHOTimes-Mailing List'"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 12:21 PM
> > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
> >
> >
> > Let's get some terminology straight. The Bleed" the brakes is to do a
few
> > pumps at each corner to get any air out of the caliper. To "flush" the
> > brakes is to do an extended bleeding to totally replace all of the brake
> > fluid in the entire system.
> >
> > IMHO, you should do a Flush every time you put in new pads, or once a
> year,
> > whichever comes first.
> >
> > At a minimum, you should bleed each caliper when you install pads.
> >
> > To bleed a single caliper is a less-than-5-minute-job.
> >
> > Opening the bleeder valve to screw in the rear caliper piston makes the
> job
> > SO easy that there is not reason not to do it. As I mentioned, I use a
> pair
> > of needlenose pliers to screw the pistons back in.
> >
> > By the time you mess around with a C-clamp on the rears and try to turn
> the
> > piston in with the bleeder valve closed, I can open the valve, turn the
> > piston, bleed the caliper, and be DONE with that corner while you're
still
> > fartin' around with the C-clamp.
> >
> > Now, the C-clamp and a small block of wood work great for squeezing in
the
> > front piston......after you open that bleeder valve, also.
> >
> > Ron Porter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Noah South III
> > Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:20 AM
> > To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
> >
> >
> > Don't feel bad Shylo, my friend and I broke a C clamp doing the same
thing
> > on my first SHO.  FWIW, if you don't open any bleeder valve you don't
have
> > to bleed the system.  On the same note, you should always bleed your
> > calipers when doing routine pad replacement.  Basically, if you're in a
> > hurry, don't open the bleeder valves, it will save you some time.
> >
> > -Noah South III
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
> > To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
> >
> >
> > > On Sat, 1 Nov 2003 23:22:07 -0800 (PST), Shylo McKinsey wrote:
> > >
> > > >1230- FINALLY get the two bolts loose and get the
> > > >rotor and caliper off. NIETHER rear caliper pistons
> > > >will BUDGE AN INCH. Put both in a vice and niether
> > > >moved AT ALL.
> > >
> > > You don't say that you tried to turn the pistons......
> > >
> > > If you don't know it, you must be the last one not to...  You have to
> > screw in the
> > > rear caliper pistons to get them to retract.  They do not press
straight
> > in.  There
> > > is a special tool that engages the notches in the piston, and you turn
> the
> > tool with
> > > a ratchet and extension.  It helps to relieve the fluid pressure in
the
> > caliper at
> > > the same time....open the bleed screw and let the fluid flow
out....then
> > rebleed the
> > > system after all the new pads are installed.  Fronts don't need to be
> > turned....it
> > > has to do with the emergency brake.
> > >
> > > Sorry for all the other problems.  Hopefully your brakes will last a
> > while, now.
> > >
> > > George
> > > _______________________________________________
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