[Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

[Ron Porter]

The bleeder screws are left in.

Below your post I have pasted the process for gravity bleeding that one guy
uses.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Nimz
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 1:18 AM
To: 'SHOTimes-Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

Gravity bleed is a good way in the rear to see if your brake hoses are any
good.  If they have arteriolosclerosis then all you will get is an
occasional, slow drip.  
If the hose are good you get a nice steady drip with the bleeder screw
removed.

Paul Nimz

++++++++++
Not sure if it has been posted, the method I use is as follows.

1. Get 4 lengths of clear plastic tubing, about 5 feet long, of a
diameter that fits snugly over your bleed screws. Note for brakes with
two bleed screws, such as my Turbo brakes, you may want to build a "Y"
to connect both at once, or perhaps have two lengths of tubing per
caliper.

2. Connect the tubing to the brake bleeds, and hang them vertically,
with one end on the bleed and the other end well above the height of the
master cylinder. I masking tape them to the garage door ramps and to
miscellaneous and sundry stuff hanging down from my ceiling.

3. Open all the bleed valves on all brakes. Brake fluid will move
through the system, filling up those tubes until they reach the same
vertical height as the master cylinder reservoir. 

4. Go to each corner, starting with the one furthest away, and moving to
the closest caliper (to the M/C that is) and lower the open end of the
tubing below the level of the master cylinder. Fluid will drain out,
just make sure that your M/C reservoir has fluid in it. Nice thing is
that if you start to run low in the reservoir, you just raise the open
end of the tube  you are working with above the reservoir height (fluid
flow stops) and top up the reservoir at your leisure. Intention on this
step is to get enough fluid through the system so that any bubbles
trapped (or old fluid) in the lines moves out through the bleed. 

5. With the tubing hung up again (i.e. no draining going on) get in the
car and gently move the master cylinder a couple of times, careful on
the amount of travel you use, considering the posts on M/C roughness and
seal damage. I tend to have long tubes, like 4 feet above the brake
calipers, so there is no risk of the master cylinder pumping pushing
fluid out the top....if your tubing is too short, you *may* have some
coming out of the top. Objective here is to dislodge any stray bubbles
in the calipers.

6. Indulge your favorite perversion.....hammer calipers with anything
up to a 2lb BFH, assume the lotus position, go for a walk whatever. Give
the bubbles time to move on out of the calipers. Repeat step 4 and 5 as
the Spirit moves you...take your time. I personally leave the thing open
overnight (silicone fluid...no water absorption in my case), but there
will be those who suggest that you don't want to leave the system open
too long (confuses me a little as the M/C reservoir has air in it etc.
etc.).

7. Obviously keep your eyes open, check for bubbles in the tubing, make
sure that only clear (i.e. bubble free) fluid is near the caliper bleed
screws. 

8. Did I say indulge in whatever amuses you while you wait?

9. Close all the bleeds, top up the M/C, replace all the caps and stuff.

10. Drive away.


Then you can join the GBSG as a full fledged member....you are then
qualified to pass explanatory emails to anyone who's initials have an
"A" or a "D" in them and/or who are thick as a post, and get totally
anally retentive in many other ways. Your next step in your learning
exercises will be to repaint your car to concours standard in your
garage using only a garden hose, bucket and sandpaper.  :-)  :-)

Hope this helps

Dennis Kalma
'75 911S with Kremer 3.2
Founding Member 990415-1004
++++++++++